In front of you stands the oldest building in Amsterdam. By around 1213 there was already a wooden chapel here, and in 1306 a stone church was consecrated to Saint Nicholas, patron saint of sailors. Over the centuries it kept growing, chapel by chapel and vault by vault, as the city grew richer.
1From Catholic to Calvinist
In 1566 the wave of iconoclasm that swept the Low Countries destroyed almost all its images and altars. In 1578, with the so-called Alteration, Amsterdam switched to the Protestant side and the Oude Kerk became a Reformed church, which it still is today. That is why the interior looks so bare: what survives of the Catholic decoration is mainly the stained glass and the wooden vaults.
2A church that is a cemetery
The floor is made up of around 2,500 gravestones, covering tens of thousands of people. Burials inside the church went on until 1865. Among them are Saskia van Uylenburgh, Rembrandt's wife, buried in 1642, and the composer Jan Pieterszoon Sweelinck, who was organist here for decades.
The city's oldest church sits in the heart of its most famous district, and nobody has ever seen a contradiction in that.
The alleys of the Red Light District literally wrap around its walls. It reflects a pragmatic port city that lived side by side with newly landed sailors and everything they brought with them.
3What to look out for
- The little houses built against the church walls, some of them centuries old.
- The statue 'Belle', dedicated in 2007 to sex workers all over the world.
- The bronze relief set among the cobblestones of the square, a hand on a breast, placed there anonymously.
Documented
A stone church was consecrated here in 1306; it passed to Reformed worship in 1578 and its floor holds around 2,500 gravestones, including that of Saskia van Uylenburgh (1642).
Sources and credits
Oude Kerk Amsterdam (official website, history of the building); Rijksmonumentenregister of the Cultural Heritage Agency of the Netherlands; Russell Shorto, 'Amsterdam: A History of the World's Most Liberal City' (2013).
Photos:
- Amsterdam’s Oude Kerk seen from the canal, with its tower and Gothic windows: Dave1980, Dominio público.
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