Plaza Mayor

You are in the Plaza Mayor, Madrid’s great open-air living room. Stand in the centre, next to the statue of Philip III, and turn slowly: you are surrounded by an almost perfect rectangle of arcades and balconies.

1The square in numbers

It has 237 balconies overlooking it and ten entrances. The best known is the Arco de Cuchilleros, in the south-west corner, with its flight of steps leading down to the Cava de San Miguel. The equestrian statue of Philip III, begun by Giambologna and finished by Pietro Tacca in 1616, has presided over the centre since 1848.

2The painted façade

On the north side, the Casa de la Panadería stands out, its façade decorated with mythological figures. The current murals are by Carlos Franco, who was commissioned in 1988 to replace earlier, badly deteriorated paintings. On its ground floor, at number 27, is the Plaza Mayor Tourist Centre, the city’s main tourist information office.

A good tip: come in from Calle Mayor and leave by Cuchilleros to notice the slope of the ground.

3Practical tips

The arcades offer shelter from the sun and the rain. The café terraces in the centre charge tourist-area prices; the nearby streets offer alternatives. In December the traditional Christmas market is set up here.

4What to look out for

• The murals of the Casa de la Panadería.
• The Arco de Cuchilleros.
• The balconies, all with the same structure.