Plaza de Santo Domingo and Botero's Gertrudis

In front of you is Plaza de Santo Domingo, perhaps the liveliest square in the walled city. By day there is shade and cafés; at night, terraces, musicians and champeta dancers.

1Gertrudis

In the middle lies a huge, serene bronze woman. She is «Gertrudis», a reclining figure by Fernando Botero, the Medellín artist famous for his generous volumes. Botero gave her to Cartagena in 2000. Locals also call her «la Gorda».

Look closely at the bronze: some parts shine much more than the rest. That is the mark of a custom: they say touching her brings luck in love. Nobody really knows who started the tradition, but thousands of hands keep it alive.

Botero used to say he did not paint fat people, but volume. Gertrudis is proof that volume can also be stroked.

2The church and the square

Behind her stands the Church of Santo Domingo, from the late 16th century, with its massive bell tower. The houses around are fine examples of colonial architecture: wooden balconies, bougainvillea and large wooden doors.

If you fancy a coffee or a fruit juice, now is a good time: the bastion, the last stop, is two minutes away.

3What to look for

• The shiny patches on Gertrudis's bronze.
• The stone doorway of the Church of Santo Domingo.
• The bougainvillea-draped balconies of the neighbouring houses.