Look up at the corner. A woman's stone head, eyes wide open, stares down at you. This is the Carassa of Carrer dels Mirallers, the best known of the carved faces that pop up here and there in the old town.

1A sign for customers?

The most popular explanation is a racy one: these faces supposedly told those in the know that there was a brothel in the street. The Ribera was the harbour district, full of sailors, merchants and strangers, and prostitution was part of everyday life. The carassa's bold, fixed stare would suit that purpose.

There is a more down-to-earth reading too. The street's name recalls the mirallers, the craftsmen who made mirrors, and some faces of this kind may have marked trades or simply decorated a corner. Neither explanation is backed by documents.

2Saved by the neighbours

What we do know is that the head almost disappeared. According to published accounts, the original building was demolished in the 1980s and the carassa was put back in its place thanks to pressure from local residents. Its survival has made it a small symbol of the neighbourhood.

The face is real and you can see it; its meaning is still guesswork.

Local guides also tell a tale of processions and of revenge by the district's prostitutes, but that clearly belongs to the realm of oral storytelling.

3What to look for

  • The wide-open eyes of the carassa, its most striking feature.
  • Its position on the corner, visible from both streets at once.
  • The street sign, which remembers the mirror makers.
Close-up of the Carassa stone head
The Carassa up close, with its wide-open eyes.

Documented

The carassa sits on the corner of Carrer dels Mirallers and Carrer dels Vigatans, in the Ribera, and was preserved after the building was demolished in the 1980s.

Oral tradition

That the head marked a brothel is the most widespread popular explanation, but no document confirms it.

Sources and credits

Barcelona City Council, public art catalogue; Barcelona Turisme; Joan Amades, «Històries i llegendes de Barcelona».

Photos:

  • The corner of Carrer dels Mirallers and Vigatans with the Carassa: Enric, CC BY 4.0.
  • Close-up of the Carassa stone head: Enfo, CC BY-SA 3.0.

Spotted a mistake? Drop us a line and we’ll look into it.