Metropolitan Cathedral

Look at the façade in front of you: twelve Corinthian columns and a triangular pediment. It looks like a Greek temple or a government building, and that puzzles many visitors.

1A church that kept falling down

Several main churches followed one another on this site from the 16th century onwards, and more than one came to a bad end. In May 1752 the vaults of the previous church collapsed and the bishop ordered it demolished. The present building was begun shortly afterwards, to plans by Antonio Masella, and work dragged on for a century.

2The 1822 façade

The neoclassical façade was designed by the Frenchman Próspero Catelin in 1821 and 1822. Tradition says its twelve columns stand for the twelve apostles. In the pediment, around 1862, sculptor Joseph Dubourdieu carved Joseph meeting his father Jacob and his brothers, a scene of reconciliation that alluded to Argentines coming together again after the Battle of Pavón in 1861.

3San Martín's tomb

Inside, in a side chapel, lie the remains of General José de San Martín, brought back in 1880 from France, where he died in 1850. The marble and bronze mausoleum is by Albert-Ernest Carrier-Belleuse, and three female figures guard it, representing Argentina, Chile and Peru, the countries he helped liberate.

It is often said the tomb was placed outside the main nave because San Martín was a Freemason; that's a popular explanation, not a documented fact.

Jorge Bergoglio was archbishop of this cathedral before becoming Pope Francis.

4What to look for

• The twelve columns of the façade.
• The pediment relief, with Joseph embracing his father.
• The votive flame by the entrance, honouring San Martín.