Callejón Angosto and the murals of Getsemaní

You start in Getsemaní, the neighbourhood that spreads out beyond the walled city. In colonial times it was the outer district of craftsmen, carpenters, blacksmiths and port workers, many of them free Black and mixed-race people. Their houses were low and simple, very different from the mansions of the old town.

1A neighbourhood with character

Getsemaní has its own place in history. In November 1811 its lancers, led by the blacksmith Pedro Romero, pressed the governing junta to declare full independence. The neighbourhood never forgot that role.

In the 20th century Getsemaní had a reputation as a rough area. Today it is one of the liveliest parts of the city, full of hostels, bars and restaurants. That change has also sparked a debate: many long-time residents have had to move away as prices have risen.

Getsemaní's murals are not just decoration: many of them speak of the neighbourhood's memory, its women and its music.

2Art on the walls

Stroll slowly along the Callejón Angosto and the streets around it, such as Calle de la Sierpe or Calle San Juan. You will find portraits of local women, palenqueras, fantastic animals and slogans painted on the walls. The murals change over time, so every visit is different.

3What to look for

• The tiled sign with the alley's name.
• The bunting and umbrellas hanging over the street.
• The murals in the neighbouring streets, with the artists' signatures.