Ann Siang Hill

You're climbing the only hill still standing in Telok Ayer. The others were levelled long ago to fill in the sea. This slope has had three names and keeps quite a few secrets.

1Spices and millionaires

Its first owner was Charles Scott, who planted nutmeg and cloves, the spices Europeans dreamed of making their fortunes from in the 19th century. It was later bought by the merchant John Gemmill. In 1873 it passed to Chia Ann Siang, a wealthy Chinese trader who had made his career with the British firm Boustead. The hill takes its present name from him.

2Letters home

In the late 19th century the hill filled up with remittance houses, the offices from which immigrants sent money to their families in China. Under the covered walkways, letter writers penned messages for those who could not write. Every remittance was a promise to return.

Clan associations and exclusive clubs set up here too. The most famous was the Chinese Weekly Entertainment Club, nicknamed the "Millionaires' Club", which brought together the Straits-born Chinese elite. Its members hosted ten-course Chinese dinners with champagne, to which they invited Europeans. Club Street owes its name to these clubs.

Whatever was decided behind the doors of these clubs and associations, between business and clan loyalties, was rarely written down.

3What to look for

• The bend in the street, which follows the shape of the old hill.
• The facades of the old clubs on Club Street, with signs in Chinese characters.
• Ann Siang Hill Park, at the top, with views over the rooftops.