Sultanahmet köfte
Elongated grilled meatballs served with white bean salad (piyaz) and pickled chillies. On Divanyolu avenue, a family-run place has been making them since 1920 with a recipe that has barely changed.
Where to try it

Three empires, two continents and a city that never stopped being a capital of the world.
Byzantium, Constantinople, Istanbul: few cities have changed their name so many times without ever losing their importance. Within a few kilometres on foot, between Sultanahmet, Eminönü and Galata, you'll find Egyptian obelisks, Byzantine cisterns, imperial mosques and bazaars where trade has gone on for centuries. Three free routes to explore it at your own pace.
Choose your free tour
All routes are free and can be combined. If it’s your first visit, start with the essentials.

From the emperors' racetrack to the Orient Express terminus, by way of an empire's mile zero and the gate that gave its name to the Ottoman government.

A serpent column that warded off snakebites, relics beneath a porphyry pillar, Medusa heads in the dark and a priest who, tradition says, took refuge inside a wall.

Imperial mosques, great bazaars and the bridge over the Golden Horn: the Istanbul every traveller wants to see, in a single walk.
The map
The routes cross in the old town. Tap a point to see which story awaits you there.
Filled points already have a published article; the rest are in the works.
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A day in the city
Link the three routes and you will see the best of the city on foot, for free: the essentials in the morning, history in the afternoon and legends as the sun goes down.
Morning
Afternoon
Early evening
Where to eat. Try Sultanahmet köfte at Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta.
What to eat
The dishes you can’t leave without trying, and the classic spots that have been serving them for years.
Elongated grilled meatballs served with white bean salad (piyaz) and pickled chillies. On Divanyolu avenue, a family-run place has been making them since 1920 with a recipe that has barely changed.
Where to try it
Dozens of paper-thin layers of pastry, butter and Gaziantep pistachios, soaked in syrup. Eat it fresh, while it still crackles; Istanbulites argue passionately over who makes the best, and Güllüoğlu has been selling it in Karaköy since 1949.
Where to try it
Coffee ground as fine as powder, slowly brewed in a copper pot and served unfiltered, with its foam and a glass of water. Next to the Spice Bazaar, Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi has been roasting and grinding it since 1871, and the queue at its corner is part of the scenery.
Where to try it
A soft, jelly-like sweet of starch and sugar, scented with rosewater or packed with pistachios and dusted with icing sugar. The Hacı Bekir confectioner's in Eminönü proudly claims to have sold it since 1777.
Where to try it
A thick, slightly tangy drink of fermented millet, enjoyed in winter topped with cinnamon and roasted chickpeas. The shop in Vefa has served it since 1876, in a room that keeps its old furnishings.
Where to try it