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Rio de Janeiro · Mysteries & legends

Witches, Tunnels and a Saint on a Colonel's Pay

Rio has its dark side too, made of rumours whispered in alleyways, treasure nobody ever found and characters the city turned into legends. This route runs from Praça XV to Lapa and, at every stop, separates what the records say from what popular tradition tells.

  • 5 stops
  • 2.7 km
  • 1 h 55 min
  • Free
Start with GPS Read about this stop 1
Old photograph of ruins on Morro do Castelo during its demolition

The route

Stop by stop

  1. 1 Arco do TelesBeneath this eighteenth-century archway, Rio's most sinister legend was born: that of Bárbara dos Prazeres.
  2. 2 Ladeira da MisericórdiaRio's first street climbs towards a hill that no longer exists, where people hunted for the Jesuits' gold for centuries.
  3. 3 Santo Antônio ConventThis convent's saint was made a captain, promoted to lieutenant colonel and drew army pay for two centuries.
  4. 4 Lapa ArchesBeneath the old aqueduct grew the Lapa of the malandros, where Madame Satã ruled.
  5. 5 Selarón StepsA Chilean painter covered 215 steps in tiles and vowed the work would only end with his death.

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Start with GPS

Guide mode

Walk it with GPS.

Open guide mode on your phone: you’ll see your position and the distance to each stop, and we’ll let you know when you arrive. Then read or listen.

Start with GPS

  1. Turn on your location

  2. Walk to the spot

  3. Check the photo and listen

What you’ll discover

Witches, Tunnels and a Saint on a Colonel's Pay

Legends, clearly labelled

The witch of the Arco do Teles and the treasure of Morro do Castelo: we tell you what is tradition and what is proven.

What Rio tore down

A whole hill that vanished in 1922, and the stretch of street that survived to tell the tale.

Lapa of the malandros

Madame Satã, the aqueduct arches and the mystery of Selarón's death.

Keep exploring

More routes in Rio de Janeiro

Back to Rio de Janeiro
HistoryFrom Portuguese Court to Empire: Rio as a Capital MixedRio Highlights on Foot: From the Real Gabinete to Glória Hill

Itineraries

How many days do you have in Rio de Janeiro?

We’ve planned it day by day for you: which routes to walk and in what order, what else to see and where to eat.

1

Rio de Janeiro in 1 day

All three routes in one full day: the highlights, the history and the legends at dusk.

See the itinerary 2

Rio de Janeiro in 2 days

A gentler pace: the three routes over two days, plus extra sights and where to eat.

See the itinerary 3

Rio de Janeiro in 3 days

The city in depth: one route a day, extra museums and neighbourhoods, and a day for good food.

See the itinerary