One day in Rio de JaneiroFour centuries in one downtown
Start early, before the heat, with "Rio Highlights on Foot": the Royal Portuguese Reading Room, a coffee at Confeitaria Colombo and the Theatro Municipal, on to the Lapa Arches and Glória Hill, with Sugarloaf on the skyline. Head back to Lapa for an unhurried feijoada. In the afternoon, take the metro to the north end of downtown for "From Portuguese Court to Empire", from São Bento Monastery to the Paço Imperial. At dusk, "Witches, Tunnels and a Saint" leads from the Arco do Teles to the Selarón Steps. Finish with roast kid and broccoli rice at nearby Nova Capela.
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Morning
Rio Highlights on Foot: From the Real Gabinete to Glória Hill
- Royal Portuguese Reading RoomA façade that looks lifted from Lisbon's Jerónimos Monastery guards the largest Portuguese library outside Portugal.
- Confeitaria ColomboSince 1894, beneath mirrors from Antwerp, it has served coffee and cakes to poets, presidents and queens.
- Theatro MunicipalThe Republic wanted its own Paris Opera, and built it in four and a half years.
- Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint SebastianAfter three centuries of borrowed churches, Rio gave itself a 75-metre concrete cone of a cathedral.
- Lapa ArchesColonial Brazil's biggest structure once carried water to the city; today it carries a tram.
- Church of Our Lady of Glória do OuteiroA figure-of-eight Baroque gem, the church of imperial baptisms, with the bay at its feet.
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Lunch
Try Feijoada at Bar Brasil. Avenida Mem de Sá, 90, Lapa
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Afternoon
From Portuguese Court to Empire: Rio as a Capital
- São Bento MonasteryA plain façade hiding one of the most dazzling gilded interiors in Brazil.
- Candelária ChurchA shipwreck vow, almost a century of building and a dome shipped piece by piece from Lisbon.
- Old Cathedral (Antiga Sé)The church where two emperors were crowned and where the future Pedro I first met Leopoldina.
- Paço Imperial and Praça XVFrom this long white house, a viceroyalty, a kingdom and an empire were governed.
- Tiradentes PalaceWhere the jail that held Tiradentes once stood, a palace now honours him.
- Praça TiradentesA square named after Tiradentes with a statue of Pedro I: two heroes who never met.
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Early evening
Witches, Tunnels and a Saint on a Colonel's Pay
- Arco do TelesBeneath this eighteenth-century archway, Rio's most sinister legend was born: that of Bárbara dos Prazeres.
- Ladeira da MisericórdiaRio's first street climbs towards a hill that no longer exists, where people hunted for the Jesuits' gold for centuries.
- Santo Antônio ConventThis convent's saint was made a captain, promoted to lieutenant colonel and drew army pay for two centuries.
- Lapa ArchesBeneath the old aqueduct grew the Lapa of the malandros, where Madame Satã ruled.
- Selarón StepsA Chilean painter covered 215 steps in tiles and vowed the work would only end with his death.
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Dinner
Try Roast kid with broccoli rice at Nova Capela. Avenida Mem de Sá, 96, Lapa
