Day 1From Belle Époque café to Corcovado
Kick off with "Rio Highlights on Foot", from the Royal Reading Room to the Lapa Arches and Glória Hill. Have feijoada in Lapa, then take a taxi to Cosme Velho to ride up to Christ the Redeemer; if the peak is in cloud, save it for later. Drop down into Santa Teresa and ride its yellow tram back to the centre. At dusk, "Witches, Tunnels and a Saint" starts at the Arco do Teles and ends on the Selarón Steps. Dine on roast kid with broccoli rice at Nova Capela, right there in Lapa.
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Morning
Rio Highlights on Foot: From the Real Gabinete to Glória Hill
- Royal Portuguese Reading RoomA façade that looks lifted from Lisbon's Jerónimos Monastery guards the largest Portuguese library outside Portugal.
- Confeitaria ColomboSince 1894, beneath mirrors from Antwerp, it has served coffee and cakes to poets, presidents and queens.
- Theatro MunicipalThe Republic wanted its own Paris Opera, and built it in four and a half years.
- Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint SebastianAfter three centuries of borrowed churches, Rio gave itself a 75-metre concrete cone of a cathedral.
- Lapa ArchesColonial Brazil's biggest structure once carried water to the city; today it carries a tram.
- Church of Our Lady of Glória do OuteiroA figure-of-eight Baroque gem, the church of imperial baptisms, with the bay at its feet.
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Lunch
Try Feijoada at Bar Brasil. Avenida Mem de Sá, 90, Lapa
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Afternoon
Christ the Redeemer
The Art Deco statue that has crowned Corcovado since 1931, inside Tijuca National Park. The best way up is the Corcovado train, which leaves Cosme Velho and climbs through the rainforest. Check the sky first: in cloud, you'll see nothing at all.
DirectionsSanta Teresa
A hillside neighbourhood of old mansions, artists' studios and cobbled streets rising above Lapa. Wander around Largo dos Guimarães and ride down on the bondinho, the tram that crosses the Lapa Arches. Best in mid-afternoon, while the light is good.
Directions -
Early evening
Witches, Tunnels and a Saint on a Colonel's Pay
- Arco do TelesBeneath this eighteenth-century archway, Rio's most sinister legend was born: that of Bárbara dos Prazeres.
- Ladeira da MisericórdiaRio's first street climbs towards a hill that no longer exists, where people hunted for the Jesuits' gold for centuries.
- Santo Antônio ConventThis convent's saint was made a captain, promoted to lieutenant colonel and drew army pay for two centuries.
- Lapa ArchesBeneath the old aqueduct grew the Lapa of the malandros, where Madame Satã ruled.
- Selarón StepsA Chilean painter covered 215 steps in tiles and vowed the work would only end with his death.
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Dinner
Try Roast kid with broccoli rice at Nova Capela. Avenida Mem de Sá, 96, Lapa
