Dadaocheng Wharf

You have passed through the floodwall and are standing beside the Tamsui River. People come here today to stroll, cycle and watch the sunset, but in the 19th century this was one of the busiest ports on the island.

1The tea port

As silt built up in the river off Bangka, ships began to moor here, further downstream. When the port of Tamsui opened to international trade in the early 1860s, Dadaocheng became the place where tea and camphor were loaded for Xiamen, Hong Kong and, from there, Europe and the United States. Foreign trading houses lined the bank, and in season the tea-roasting workshops worked day and night.

2Behind the wall

Floods were frequent, and in the second half of the 20th century the great floodwall you just crossed was built. It protected the city but also cut it off from the river for decades. Gates in the wall, like this one, are now the way back to the water's edge.

In summer the wharf hosts a festival with fireworks over the river; the rest of the year, the show is the sun sinking behind the bridges.

From here, Ningxia Night Market is about ten minutes' walk east, perfect for dinner.

3What to look for

• The sunset over the Sanchong bank.
• The floodwall gate, with its enormous sluice doors.
• The boats heading up and down the river towards Tamsui.