Day 1Tea, Temples and Imperial Treasures
Set off early with “From Ximending to the River: Markets, Gates and Dadaocheng Tea”: North Gate, Dihua Street and Dadaocheng Wharf. Have lu rou fan for lunch and carry on north to Dalongdong, where Bao'an Temple and the Confucius Temple stand side by side. From Shilin station, a bus drops you at the National Palace Museum. Ride the MRT back to Longshan Temple station for “Gods, Oracles and Ghosts of Old Bangka” at dusk, with Qingshui Temple and Huaxi Street, then have oyster omelette at Ningxia.
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Morning
From Ximending to the River: Markets, Gates and Dadaocheng Tea
- Red House (Ximen Red House)An octagonal brick market built in 1908 on a former cemetery, the seed of Taipei's youngest neighbourhood.
- Zhongshan HallThe hall where, on 25 October 1945, fifty years of Japanese rule in Taiwan came to an end.
- North Gate (Beimen)The only one of Taipei's five city gates that still looks as it did in 1884.
- Dihua StreetTaipei's oldest street, where tea, herbs and fabrics made several generations of merchants rich.
- Taipei Xia-Hai City God TempleA tiny temple where, tradition says, the Old Man under the Moon ties lovers together with a red thread.
- Dadaocheng WharfThe old tea port, today the best place in Taipei to watch the sun go down over the river.
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Lunch
Try Lu rou fan, braised pork rice at Jin Feng (金峰魯肉飯). Roosevelt Rd. Sec. 1, 10, Zhongzheng, Taipei
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Afternoon
Dalongdong Bao'an Temple
One of Taipei's most beautiful temples, dedicated to the god of medicine Baosheng Dadi, with carvings, murals and a restoration that won a UNESCO award. Next door, the Confucius Temple is calm and incense-free: allow an hour for both.
DirectionsNational Palace Museum
Home to one of the world's largest collections of Chinese imperial art: jade, bronzes, porcelain, calligraphy and painting that once belonged to the Forbidden City. It's huge, so pick two or three galleries. Take a bus from Shilin MRT and check opening hours.
Directions -
Early evening
Gods, Oracles and Ghosts of Old Bangka
- Ximending Tianhou TempleA Chinese sea goddess living in a former Japanese Buddhist temple, with the monk Kūkai still inside.
- Bangka Qingshui TempleThe statue of Master Qingshui, whose nose, tradition says, falls off to warn that disaster is coming.
- Bopiliao Historic BlockAn 18th-century street with an unsettling name, «the shed where skin is stripped», that nobody has fully explained.
- Bangka Lungshan TempleTaipei's most famous temple was born, tradition says, from a little incense pouch that glowed in the dark.
- Bangka Qingshan TempleThe god who came to stop an epidemic and who, every autumn, goes out at night to hunt spirits through the streets of Wanhua.
- Huaxi Street Night Market and Ghost MonthA former red-light district turned night market, and the rules for not disturbing the ghosts of the seventh month.
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Dinner
Try O-a-jian, oyster omelette at Yuan Huan Bian (圓環邊蚵仔煎). Ningxia Rd. 46, Datong, Taipei
