One day in TaipeiFrom River Tea to Bangka Incense
Start early with “From Ximending to the River: Markets, Gates and Dadaocheng Tea”, from the Red House to Dihua Street and the Xia-Hai City God Temple, just as the herb and tea shops are opening. Have lu rou fan for lunch, then take the MRT to 228 Peace Memorial Park: in the afternoon, “City Walls, Governors and a Square for Freedom” links the Presidential Office Building with Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall. As the sun goes down, head to Bangka: “Gods, Oracles and Ghosts of Old Bangka” takes in Lungshan Temple and Bopiliao. Dinner is oyster omelette at Ningxia Night Market.
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Morning
From Ximending to the River: Markets, Gates and Dadaocheng Tea
- Red House (Ximen Red House)An octagonal brick market built in 1908 on a former cemetery, the seed of Taipei's youngest neighbourhood.
- Zhongshan HallThe hall where, on 25 October 1945, fifty years of Japanese rule in Taiwan came to an end.
- North Gate (Beimen)The only one of Taipei's five city gates that still looks as it did in 1884.
- Dihua StreetTaipei's oldest street, where tea, herbs and fabrics made several generations of merchants rich.
- Taipei Xia-Hai City God TempleA tiny temple where, tradition says, the Old Man under the Moon ties lovers together with a red thread.
- Dadaocheng WharfThe old tea port, today the best place in Taipei to watch the sun go down over the river.
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Lunch
Try Lu rou fan, braised pork rice at Jin Feng (金峰魯肉飯). Roosevelt Rd. Sec. 1, 10, Zhongzheng, Taipei
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Afternoon
City Walls, Governors and a Square for Freedom
- National Taiwan MuseumA Greek temple at the end of the avenue, built on the ruins of a shrine to the goddess of the sea.
- 228 Peace Memorial Park and 228 Memorial MuseumThe radio station from which, in February 1947, Taipei's protest reached the whole island.
- Presidential Office BuildingThe red-brick palace built by the Japanese governors, now home to Taiwan's presidency.
- East Gate (Jingfu Gate)A gate without a wall in the middle of a roundabout: what remains of the Qing walled city.
- Liberty Square, National Theater and Concert HallThe vast plaza where, in March 1990, thousands of students carrying a white lily called for free elections.
- Chiang Kai-shek Memorial HallA white marble monument with a blue roof and 89 steps, which Taiwan is still debating how to remember.
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Early evening
Gods, Oracles and Ghosts of Old Bangka
- Ximending Tianhou TempleA Chinese sea goddess living in a former Japanese Buddhist temple, with the monk Kūkai still inside.
- Bangka Qingshui TempleThe statue of Master Qingshui, whose nose, tradition says, falls off to warn that disaster is coming.
- Bopiliao Historic BlockAn 18th-century street with an unsettling name, «the shed where skin is stripped», that nobody has fully explained.
- Bangka Lungshan TempleTaipei's most famous temple was born, tradition says, from a little incense pouch that glowed in the dark.
- Bangka Qingshan TempleThe god who came to stop an epidemic and who, every autumn, goes out at night to hunt spirits through the streets of Wanhua.
- Huaxi Street Night Market and Ghost MonthA former red-light district turned night market, and the rules for not disturbing the ghosts of the seventh month.
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Dinner
Try O-a-jian, oyster omelette at Yuan Huan Bian (圓環邊蚵仔煎). Ningxia Rd. 46, Datong, Taipei
