In front of you is Wat Pho, one of Bangkok's oldest and largest temples. It already existed in Ayutthaya times, but Rama I rebuilt it from 1788, and Rama III expanded it from 1832, giving it the look it has today.
1The great Reclining Buddha
Its star is the Reclining Buddha: about 46 metres long and 15 metres high, made of brick and plaster covered in gold leaf. It depicts the Buddha at the moment of entering nirvana. The soles of its feet are inlaid with mother-of-pearl and divided into 108 panels showing auspicious symbols. Along the hall stand 108 bronze bowls: worshippers drop a coin in each to bring good luck and support the temple.
2A university in stone
Rama III wanted the temple to be a place of learning open to all. He had inscriptions on medicine, history, literature and customs carved into its walls, now listed on UNESCO's Memory of the World Register. That's why Wat Pho is said to have been the country's first public university. The tradition lives on: the temple is the birthplace of Thai massage and still runs a school.
The Chinese statues guarding the gates arrived as ballast in ships trading with China.
3What to look for
- The four great chedis, dedicated to the first four Chakri kings.
- The Chinese stone guardians; some depict Westerners in top hats.
- The porcelain tiles forming flowers on the chedis.

Documented
Rama I rebuilt Wat Pho from 1788 and Rama III expanded it from 1832; the Reclining Buddha is about 46 m long and the temple's inscriptions are on UNESCO's Memory of the World Register.
Sources and credits
Wat Pho, official website (watpho.com); UNESCO, Memory of the World, «Epigraphic Archives of Wat Pho»; Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT).
Photos:
- Chedis of Wat Pho covered in colourful ceramics: Supanut Arunoprayote, CC BY 4.0.
- Head and shoulder of the golden Reclining Buddha at Wat Pho: Wolfgang Holzem, CC BY-SA 4.0.
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