Behind this white wall lies the Grand Palace, official residence of the kings of Siam since 1782. Rama I ordered work to begin on 6 May that year, just after founding the capital, and the court and government lived here until 1925. Today it's used for ceremonies and is partly open to visitors as a museum.

1The Emerald Buddha

Inside the grounds stands Wat Phra Kaew, the royal chapel that houses the Emerald Buddha. It's a seated figure about 66 centimetres tall, carved from green stone, jade or jasper: "emerald" refers only to its colour. According to a 15th-century chronicle, in 1434 lightning split a chedi in Chiang Rai, revealing an image covered in stucco; as the stucco flaked away, the green stone appeared. It travelled to Lampang, Chiang Mai, Luang Prabang and Vientiane, from where General Chakri, the future Rama I, took it in 1779. It has three golden robes, for the hot, rainy and cool seasons, and the king changes them in a ceremony at the start of each season.

The chronicle adds that it was carved by the sage Nagasena in India, centuries before Christ, with the help of the gods: that part is legend.

2Tips for your visit

Cover your shoulders and knees and take off your shoes before entering the halls. And if someone very friendly tells you the palace is closed and offers you a tuk-tuk somewhere else, it's a well-known scam: check the entrance yourself.

3What to look for

  • The golden stupa Phra Si Rattana Chedi, peeking over the wall.
  • The tiered orange and green roofs of Wat Phra Kaew.
  • The guards at the Wiset Chaisri Gate.
The Emerald Buddha on its gilded altar inside Wat Phra Kaew
The Emerald Buddha, about 66 centimetres tall, high on its golden throne.
Chakri Maha Prasat Throne Hall, with a European façade and Thai roofs
Chakri Maha Prasat (1876–1882): a European body crowned with Thai roofs.

Documented

Construction of the Grand Palace began on 6 May 1782; the Emerald Buddha came to Siam from Vientiane in 1779, and the king changes its three seasonal robes in a ceremony.

Oral tradition

The Emerald Buddha's origin in India, carved by Nagasena with divine help, and the details of its discovery in 1434 come from legendary chronicles.

Sources and credits

Bureau of the Royal Household, official Grand Palace website (royalgrandpalace.th); Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT); Thai Wikipedia, «พระแก้วมรกต».

Photos:

  • White wall of the Grand Palace with the golden stupa and the roofs of Wat Phra Kaew behind it: Ninara (edición: TSP), CC BY 4.0.
  • The Emerald Buddha on its gilded altar inside Wat Phra Kaew: Shivashanky, CC BY-SA 4.0.
  • Chakri Maha Prasat Throne Hall, with a European façade and Thai roofs: Supanut Arunoprayote, CC BY 4.0.

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