Day 1Temples, canals and Chinatown
Start as the Grand Palace opens with “Bangkok highlights”, which takes in Wat Pho and crosses by ferry to Wat Arun. Have pad thai at Thipsamai, then head back to the river at Tha Chang pier: that's where the longtail boats leave for the canals of Thonburi, a smart move in the hottest hours because there's always a breeze on the water. Afterwards, the express boat carries you downriver to Si Phraya. At dusk, “Spirits, dragons and a hidden Buddha” runs from Talat Noi to the Golden Buddha of Wat Traimit and ends in Yaowarat, with kuay jab at Nai Ek for dinner.
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Morning
Bangkok highlights: from the Emerald Buddha to the Temple of Dawn
- Grand Palace and Wat Phra KaewThe residence of the Chakri kings and the temple of the Emerald Buddha, behind a white wall.
- Wat PhoThe temple of the giant Reclining Buddha, which was also Siam's first public school.
- Museum SiamA former Italian-designed ministry turned into a museum about what it means to be Thai.
- Tha Tien PierA pier with a century-old market and a legend of giants who flattened everything.
- Wat Arun, the Temple of DawnThe porcelain tower that welcomes everyone arriving by river.
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Lunch
Try Pad thai at Thipsamai (Phad Thai Pratu Phi). 313-315 Maha Chai Road, Phra Nakhon
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Afternoon
Longtail boat through the Thonburi khlongs
Thonburi was the capital before Bangkok, and it still has its canals: wooden houses on stilts, neighbourhood temples and families who live facing the water. Longtail boats leave from the piers near the Grand Palace; agree on the price and length of the trip before you get in.
DirectionsChao Phraya Express Boat
Bangkok's river bus, hopping from pier to pier past temples, old warehouses and skyscrapers. From Tha Chang, the orange-flag line drops you at Si Phraya, a short walk from Talat Noi. It's cheap, and far more pleasant than sitting in traffic.
Directions -
Early evening
Spirits, dragons and a hidden Buddha: secret Chinatown
- Talat Noi and its spiritsA riverside neighbourhood where every house has its invisible guardian.
- Wat Traimit and the Golden BuddhaThe solid gold statue nobody knew was gold until it fell.
- Leng Buai Ia ShrineA Chinese shrine that claims to be the oldest in the country, with a date nobody has been able to prove.
- Wat Mangkon KamalawatThe Dragon Lotus Temple, the great home of Chinese Buddhism in Bangkok.
- Sampeng LaneChinatown's original street, a trading corridor that hasn't stopped bustling since 1782.
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Dinner
Try Kuay jab (guay jub) at Nai Ek Roll Noodles. 442 Soi Yaowarat 9, Samphanthawong
