Cusco Cathedral and the Lord of the Earthquakes

The cathedral in front of you was built between 1560 and 1654 on the site of the old Kiswarkancha, which sources attribute to the Inca Viracocha. Outside it is sober and massive; inside it holds the city’s best-loved image.

1The earthquake of 1650

On 31 March 1650 an earthquake devastated Cusco, bringing down churches, houses and convents. According to tradition, the townspeople carried a crucifix from the cathedral in procession and the tremors stopped. Ever since, it has been called the Lord of the Earthquakes, Taytacha Temblores in Quechua, and it is the patron of Cusco.

Every Holy Monday it is carried through the city. The faithful shower it with ñucchu flowers, a deep red sage. Its dark skin is said to come from centuries of smoke from candles and lamps.

That the 1650 earthquake happened is documented. That the procession stopped it is the faith and tradition of the city.

2The María Angola bell

One of the towers holds the María Angola, cast in 1659 and one of the largest bells in South America. Tradition says that a woman called María, of Angolan origin, threw her gold jewellery into the crucible while it was being cast. No document proves it, and the versions vary.

Inside, the Last Supper painted by Marcos Zapata in the 18th century shows Christ and his apostles before a dish of cuy, guinea pig. If you go in, look for it.

3What to look for

• The towers: one of them holds the María Angola.
• The central stone portal, in a Renaissance and Baroque style.
• The churches of El Triunfo and La Sagrada Familia, on either side.