One day in CuscoInca stone, gold and legends
Start slowly with a cup of coca tea, then spend the morning on "Cusco in a morning: market, squares and the famous stone", from San Pedro Market to the Plaza de Armas and the Twelve-Angled Stone. Head down to Calle Pampa del Castillo for chicharrón at lunch; share a plate, as rich food sits heavy at altitude. Right next door, "From the Temple of the Sun to the Cross" takes in Qorikancha, Calle Loreto and San Blas. Rest at your hotel, then come back at sunset for "Tunnels, tremors and serpents", ending at the San Cristóbal viewpoint. Finish with lomo saltado on the plaza.
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Morning
Cusco in a morning: market, squares and the famous stone
- San Pedro MarketCusco’s pantry since 1925: juices, giant loaves, medicinal herbs and steaming soups under an iron roof.
- Arch of Santa ClaraA neoclassical triumphal arch honouring a country that lasted only three years: the Peru-Bolivian Confederation.
- Plaza and Church of San FranciscoA leafy square presided over by an austere Franciscan church that hides crypts, a carved choir and a gigantic canvas.
- Plaza Regocijo, the old KusipataThe other half of the great Inca square, with the town hall and the house where Inca Garcilaso de la Vega lived.
- Plaza de Armas, the beating heart of CuscoPeru’s most photographed square: two Baroque churches, carved wooden balconies and the great festival of Inti Raymi.
- The Twelve-Angled StoneThe most famous block of Inca masonry: twelve edges fitted to their neighbours without mortar.
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Lunch
Try Cusco-style chicharrón at Chicharronería Los Mundialistas. Calle Pampa del Castillo 371
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Afternoon
From the Temple of the Sun to the Cross: Cusco of two empires
- Qorikancha and Santo DomingoThe Inca Temple of the Sun, turned into a Dominican convent, where Inca stonework survived the earthquakes that brought down the colonial walls.
- Calle Loreto: the alley of Inca wallsA narrow alley between two Inca walls: on one side, Huayna Cápac’s palace; on the other, the house of the chosen women.
- Plaza de Armas: the old HuacaypataThe great ceremonial square of the Incas was also the stage for the conquest and for the execution of Túpac Amaru II.
- Hatun Rumiyoc and the palace of Inca RocaThe wall of the palace attributed to Inca Roca, now the Archbishop’s Palace, with the Twelve-Angled Stone set into its base.
- San Blas: the neighbourhood and its churchThe artisans’ quarter at the top of a steep slope, with a plain-looking church that holds one of the most celebrated pulpits in the Americas.
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Early evening
Tunnels, tremors and serpents: legendary Cusco
- Qorikancha: the golden garden and the ChinkanaA golden garden described by the chroniclers, and a tunnel that, according to tradition, ran underground all the way to Sacsayhuamán.
- La Compañía and its quarrel with the cathedralA façade that, so the story goes, tried to outshine the cathedral and sent a complaint all the way to the Pope.
- Cusco Cathedral and the Lord of the EarthquakesA dark Christ that Cusco credits with calming the 1650 earthquake, and a bell with a woman’s name.
- Plazoleta de las Nazarenas and Siete CulebrasA quiet little square, a former religious house on Inca walls, and an alley with serpents carved into the stone.
- San Cristóbal: Manco Cápac and the puma of CuscoFrom the forecourt of a church linked to a baptised Inca prince you see the city that, according to an old idea, was shaped like a puma.
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Dinner
Try Lomo saltado at Inka Grill. Portal de Panes 115, Plaza de Armas
