Day 1Market, museums and legends
Today is about acclimatising, so no early start: have a coca tea and set off on "Cusco in a morning", from San Pedro Market to the Arch of Santa Clara and the Twelve-Angled Stone. Lunch on chicharrón in Calle Pampa del Castillo, ideally one portion to share. In the afternoon, two indoor museums almost next door to each other around Plazoleta de las Nazarenas. At sunset, "Tunnels, tremors and serpents" leads from La Compañía and the cathedral up to San Cristóbal: take that last climb very slowly. Then lomo saltado and an early night.
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Morning
Cusco in a morning: market, squares and the famous stone
- San Pedro MarketCusco’s pantry since 1925: juices, giant loaves, medicinal herbs and steaming soups under an iron roof.
- Arch of Santa ClaraA neoclassical triumphal arch honouring a country that lasted only three years: the Peru-Bolivian Confederation.
- Plaza and Church of San FranciscoA leafy square presided over by an austere Franciscan church that hides crypts, a carved choir and a gigantic canvas.
- Plaza Regocijo, the old KusipataThe other half of the great Inca square, with the town hall and the house where Inca Garcilaso de la Vega lived.
- Plaza de Armas, the beating heart of CuscoPeru’s most photographed square: two Baroque churches, carved wooden balconies and the great festival of Inti Raymi.
- The Twelve-Angled StoneThe most famous block of Inca masonry: twelve edges fitted to their neighbours without mortar.
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Lunch
Try Cusco-style chicharrón at Chicharronería Los Mundialistas. Calle Pampa del Castillo 371
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Afternoon
Museum of Pre-Columbian Art (MAP)
Set in a colonial mansion on Plazoleta de las Nazarenas, this museum displays ceramics, metalwork and carvings from Peruvian cultures that predate the Incas, presented as works of art. Small and beautifully curated, it's perfect for a quiet afternoon.
DirectionsMuseo Inka
In the Admiral's House, on the slope running up from the Plaza de Armas, it gathers ceramics, textiles, wooden keros and mummies that show how the Incas lived. Weavers often work in the courtyard. Check opening hours before you go.
Directions -
Early evening
Tunnels, tremors and serpents: legendary Cusco
- Qorikancha: the golden garden and the ChinkanaA golden garden described by the chroniclers, and a tunnel that, according to tradition, ran underground all the way to Sacsayhuamán.
- La Compañía and its quarrel with the cathedralA façade that, so the story goes, tried to outshine the cathedral and sent a complaint all the way to the Pope.
- Cusco Cathedral and the Lord of the EarthquakesA dark Christ that Cusco credits with calming the 1650 earthquake, and a bell with a woman’s name.
- Plazoleta de las Nazarenas and Siete CulebrasA quiet little square, a former religious house on Inca walls, and an alley with serpents carved into the stone.
- San Cristóbal: Manco Cápac and the puma of CuscoFrom the forecourt of a church linked to a baptised Inca prince you see the city that, according to an old idea, was shaped like a puma.
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Dinner
Try Lomo saltado at Inka Grill. Portal de Panes 115, Plaza de Armas
