Sultans, djinns and Mughal emperors in a city rebuilt seven times over.
Delhi has been the capital of sultans, of Mughal emperors and of the British Raj, and each of them built a city of their own on the ruins of the last. Today a single stroll can take you from the bazaars of Chandni Chowk to the avenues of New Delhi, from a 17th-century mosque to a stone observatory or to ruins where people still write letters to the djinns. Three free routes to discover it on foot, at your own pace.
Choose your free tour
All routes are free and can be combined. If it’s your first visit, start with the mixed route.
From the Great Mosque to the Red Fort and all along Chandni Chowk: the 17th-century Mughal capital still pulses between bazaars, temples and gurdwaras.
From the fort where people write letters to the djinns to the disputed tomb of Delhi's only female sultan: mysteries with an exact address.
An arch for fallen soldiers, a medieval stepwell, the British circus of colonnades, a stone observatory and a Sikh temple where everyone eats for free.
The map
The routes cross in the old town. Tap a point to see which story awaits you there.
Filled points already have a published article; the rest are in the works.
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A day in the city
Link the three routes and you will see the best of the city on foot, for free: the mixed route in the morning, history in the afternoon and legends as the sun goes down.
Morning
Afternoon
Early evening
Where to eat. Try Parathas from Paranthe Wali Gali at Pandit Gaya Prasad Shiv Charan.
What to eat
The dishes you can’t leave without trying, and the classic spots that have been serving them for years.
Flatbreads stuffed with potato, radish, cauliflower or even banana, fried in ghee in a deep pan and served with chutneys and potato curry. They've been made in this Chandni Chowk lane since the late 19th century.
Where to try it
Spirals of fermented batter fried to order and soaked in syrup, crisp outside and juicy within. On the corner of Dariba Kalan they've been frying them since 1884, according to the stall itself.
Where to try it
Fluffy lentil dumplings drenched in fresh yoghurt, with sweet tamarind chutney and toasted spices. It's Delhi's most refreshing chaat, perfect for the heat.
Where to try it
Slow-cooked, spiced mutton stews, char-grilled kebabs and breads fresh from the tandoor, heirs to the court kitchens. Karim's has served them beside the Jama Masjid since 1913.
Where to try it
Tandoor-roasted chicken finished in a creamy tomato and butter sauce. Its invention is credited to the founders of Moti Mahal, opened in Daryaganj after Partition in 1947, though who really created the dish is now disputed.
Where to try it
