Perfume Souk

Close your eyes for a moment. On this Deira street the air smells of oud, the dark resin of agarwood, of musk and of rose. This is where attars are sold, alcohol-free perfumed oils applied straight onto the skin, along with bakhoor, wood chips soaked in essences and burned to scent clothes and homes.

1Perfume as hospitality

In Gulf culture, perfume is not a luxury but a gesture of welcome. At the end of a visit, the host passes round the censer with bakhoor so that guests can let the smoke infuse their clothes. Many blends are made on the spot to suit the customer.

2Umm Al Duwais

But in Emirati folklore, a scent that was too strong could be a warning sign. According to tradition, Umm Al Duwais was a female djinn who appeared as a beautiful woman dressed in fine clothes, gold jewellery and an irresistible fragrance. She lured men who followed her at night and, once they were close, revealed her true face: one of her hands was a blade as sharp as a sickle.

The versions vary from one emirate to another: in some she has donkey’s legs and cat’s eyes; in the children’s version she tempts them with sweets.

The tale served as a warning against strangers and against infidelity, and her name is still used today for a dangerously seductive woman. In 2013 she inspired the horror film «Djinn», by Tobe Hooper, shot in the Emirates.

3What to look for

• The attar bottles, small and often gilded.
• The oud chips, dark and resinous, priced by quality.
• The censers smoking at the door of some shops.