Isshinji Temple

The gate in front of you looks like no other in Osaka: metal, concrete and two bronze guardians with an almost athletic build. It was designed in 1997 by Takaguchi Kyōyū, who was both the temple's abbot and an architect, and the guardians are by the sculptor Kamigō Mineo. But the most astonishing thing about Isshinji lies inside.

1Buddhas made of people

According to temple tradition, the monk Hōnen had a hermitage here in 1185. Isshinji accepts the ashes of anyone, regardless of background. In 1887 it made a remarkable decision: the ashes of some fifty thousand people, gathered since 1851, were ground and mixed to cast an image of Amida. The okotsubutsu, the "bone Buddha", was born.

Since then a new one has been made every ten years. The air raids of March 1945 destroyed six, and their remains were incorporated into the next. Today the temple holds the ashes of around two million people. Many Osaka families come to visit "their grandparents" in these statues.

The practice is recognized as an Intangible Cultural Property of the City of Osaka.

2A samurai against drink

In the grounds lies the grave of Honda Tadatomo, killed in the siege of 1615. The story goes that before he died he wished to help those who suffered from alcohol, and ever since people have asked him for strength to give up drinking.

3What to look for

• The bronze guardians at the gate.
• The coming and going of families with flowers.
• The hall of the okotsubutsu, if you go in respectfully.