Mitsutera Temple

Take a look at what is in front of you: a wooden temple from 1808 slotted beneath a modern building, right on Midosuji Avenue. This is Mitsutera, which locals fondly call "Mitterasan".

1A camphor tree and a monk

According to temple tradition, it all began when the monk Gyōki planted a camphor tree here, and in 744, by order of Emperor Shōmu, he built a hall dedicated to the eleven-headed Kannon. This was a port back then, called Mitsu, which gave the temple its name. The current hall was rebuilt in 1808 after a fire.

In the 20th century, when Midosuji was widened, a great camphor tree belonging to the temple was cut down. Its wood was used to carve the current main image, which is secret and never shown.

2The temple that didn't burn

In March 1945 the air raids flattened Minami, but the main hall survived. Between 2020 and 2021, to build the structure that now covers it, the whole hall was rolled to a new position without being taken apart.

In the tale "Mameda", a little tanuki pays with ginkgo leaves turned into money and ends up buried at this temple, covered in yellow leaves.

It is a rakugo, a comic monologue, written by Mita Jun'ichi in 1966 and first performed by the great Katsura Beichō, inspired by stories from the theater district. It isn't history, but everyone here knows it.

3What to look for

• The chrysanthemums on the roof tiles, a sign of its old link with the imperial temple of Ninnaji.
• The contrast between the 1808 roof and the modern facade.
• The ginkgo trees of Midosuji, like the ones in the tale.