Namba Yasaka Shrine

Look up: a twelve-meter lion's head stares at you with goggling eyes and a gaping mouth. This is the Shishiden, the "lion hall", and it is one of the most startling sights in Osaka.

1A god against plague

According to the shrine's tradition, an epidemic spread through this area in the time of Emperor Nintoku, and the shrine was founded to appease Gozu Tennō, a deity linked to disease. After Buddhism and Shinto were separated in the Meiji era, the main deities became Susanoo, the tempestuous storm god, and his wife Kushinada.

2The mouth that swallows evil

The air raids of 13 and 14 March 1945 destroyed the shrine. In May 1974 the current buildings opened, and with them this lion's head, about 12 meters high, 11 wide and 10 deep. Its shape comes from the lion dance, which in Japan drives away evil spirits.

It is said that its huge mouth swallows bad luck and draws victory, so students come before exams and business owners before a big deal.

3Tugging the serpent

Every third Sunday of January, a ritual tug-of-war is held with a great rope. It recalls the myth in which Susanoo defeated Yamata no Orochi, the eight-headed serpent. Since 2001 it has been an Intangible Folk Cultural Property of the City of Osaka.

4What to look for

• The lion's eyes, which light up during some festivals.
• The roof of the mouth, decorated with carvings.
• The little altar hidden inside the jaws.