This narrow, deep temple wedged into Guiyang Street belongs to one of the most feared gods in Wanhua: King Qingshan, protector against epidemics.
1A god against the plague
In 1854 an epidemic struck Bangka. Fishermen from Hui'an in Fujian then brought over the image of their protector, King Qingshan, identified with Zhang Gun, a general who, according to local chronicles, defended the Hui'an coast against pirates. He first had a small shrine on the old street; the present temple was begun in 1856 and completed in 1859.
According to a popular version, as the statue was carried past this spot it became so heavy that the bearers could go no further: the god had chosen his home.
2The night patrol
Every year, in the tenth month of the lunar calendar, which usually falls in November or December, the god's festival is held. On the two nights before the great parade, his palanquin sets out on a night procession called anfang, to inspect the worlds of the living and the dead: by belief, he hears the complaints of wronged souls and captures evil spirits. He is escorted by the Eight Generals, with painted faces. When passing the temples of other groups, the procession puts out its lights and speeds up. On its return, the palanquin enters the temple backwards.
This procession has been protected as intangible cultural heritage since 2010.
3What to look for
- The octagonal ceiling of carved wood in the entrance hall.
- The Japanese-style stone lions, from the 1938 renovation.
- The Eight Generals and the judges of the underworld on the side altars.
Documented
The cult reached Bangka with the epidemic of 1854 and the temple was built between 1856 and 1859; the night patrols and the god's parade have been intangible heritage since 2010.
Oral tradition
That the statue grew heavy to choose its site and that the god captures spirits during the night patrol are part of popular belief.
Sources and credits
Bureau of Cultural Heritage, Ministry of Culture, listings for Qingshan Temple and for its night patrol and procession; Bangka Qingshan Temple (official website); Taipei Travel (travel.taipei).
Photos:
- Front of Qingshan Temple on Guiyang Street, with a double-eaved roof and yellow lanterns: Felix Filnkoessl, CC BY-SA 2.0.
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