Leng Buai Ia Shrine

Tucked among the stalls of Talat Kao market is the Leng Buai Ia shrine. It's small, but it carries a big reputation: it is often described as the oldest Chinese shrine in Thailand.

1A disputed date

Inside, a plaque with a Chinese inscription dates its construction to 1658, in the days of the Ayutthaya kingdom, more than a century before Bangkok existed. If true, the shrine would be older than the city itself. But there is no firm evidence for that date. The oldest bell bears an inscription from the 23rd year of the Daoguang Emperor, that is 1843, in the reign of Rama III. The cautious claim is that it's one of the oldest Chinese shrines in Bangkok, and no more.

2Gods for trade

It was probably founded by Teochew merchants, the community that dominated Chinatown's commerce. The central altar is dedicated to Leng Buai Ia and his wife; at the sides are Guan Yu, the general turned god of loyalty and business, and Tianhou, the Queen of Heaven, protector of sailors. Among its treasures is an incense burner given by King Chulalongkorn, Rama V.

In many Chinese shrines, worshippers shake cylinders of numbered sticks until one falls out: its number points to a written oracle that answers their questions.

3What to look for

• The ceramic dragons coiled around the two entrance columns.
• The roof ridge, covered in colourful figures.
• The burners where paper offerings are burned.