Day 1Bamboo and the golden pavilion
Give the morning to Arashiyama on the Arashiyama highlights route: from Togetsukyō Bridge to Tenryū-ji, the Sagano bamboo grove and Rakushisha. In early light, with few people around, it is a different experience. Have yudōfu, the simmered tofu of Zen temples, at Okutan beside Nanzen-ji: it is in the east, so go by train and subway. Save the afternoon for the northwest of the city, with two temples that lie on the way back to the centre.
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Morning
Arashiyama highlights: a bridge for the moon, bamboo and poets
- Togetsukyō BridgeA bridge named after a moon that seemed to cross it, which thirteen-year-olds walk over without looking back.
- Tenryū-ji TempleThe great Zen temple a shogun founded to calm the spirit of the emperor he had betrayed.
- Nonomiya ShrineThe sacred grove where imperial princesses purified themselves before serving at Ise, setting of a chapter of “Genji”.
- Sagano Bamboo GroveA green corridor of towering stalks whose sound is protected as one of Japan’s soundscapes.
- Jōjakkō-ji TempleA temple on the slopes of Mount Ogura, where tradition says a poet gathered Japan’s hundred most famous poems.
- Rakushisha, the Hut of the Fallen PersimmonsThe thatched hut of a disciple of Bashō, named after a persimmon crop sold and lost in a single night.
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Lunch
Try Yudōfu (simmered tofu) at Okutan Nanzen-ji. Nanzen-ji Fukuchi-chō 86-30, Sakyō, Kioto
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Afternoon
Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion
A three-storey pavilion covered in gold leaf, reflected in a pond. It was the villa of shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu and was rebuilt in 1955 after a fire. The visit is short but busy: arrive early in the afternoon.
DirectionsRyōan-ji and its rock garden
Fifteen rocks on raked gravel, Japan's most celebrated dry garden. Sit on the veranda and let your eyes wander. It is about a twenty-minute walk from Kinkaku-ji, so the two combine easily.
Directions
