One day in KyotoBamboo, castles and lanterns
Start early in Arashiyama with the Arashiyama highlights route: from Togetsukyō Bridge to the Sagano bamboo grove and the Rakushisha hut, before the tour groups arrive. For lunch, try the yudōfu at Okutan, beside Nanzen-ji: it is in the east, so allow for a train and subway ride. In the afternoon, take the history route, from Nijō Castle and the Hamaguri-gomon to Sanjō Bridge and Nishiki. At dusk, head up to Gion on the spirits route, ending at Kiyomizu-dera, and have nishin soba for dinner at Matsuba.
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Morning
Arashiyama highlights: a bridge for the moon, bamboo and poets
- Togetsukyō BridgeA bridge named after a moon that seemed to cross it, which thirteen-year-olds walk over without looking back.
- Tenryū-ji TempleThe great Zen temple a shogun founded to calm the spirit of the emperor he had betrayed.
- Nonomiya ShrineThe sacred grove where imperial princesses purified themselves before serving at Ise, setting of a chapter of “Genji”.
- Sagano Bamboo GroveA green corridor of towering stalks whose sound is protected as one of Japan’s soundscapes.
- Jōjakkō-ji TempleA temple on the slopes of Mount Ogura, where tradition says a poet gathered Japan’s hundred most famous poems.
- Rakushisha, the Hut of the Fallen PersimmonsThe thatched hut of a disciple of Bashō, named after a persimmon crop sold and lost in a single night.
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Lunch
Try Yudōfu (simmered tofu) at Okutan Nanzen-ji. Nanzen-ji Fukuchi-chō 86-30, Sakyō, Kioto
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Afternoon
Shoguns, emperors and samurai: a thousand years of power in Kyoto
- Nijō CastleThe castle where the first Tokugawa shogun settled and where the last one announced the end of his dynasty.
- Hamaguri-gomon GateA gate that opened like a clam in a fire, and which took gunfire in a battle in 1864.
- Kyoto Imperial Palace: Kenreimon GateThe most solemn gate of the palace where emperors lived for over five centuries, used only by them and by heads of state.
- Honnō-ji TempleThe temple whose name stands for Japan’s most famous betrayal, home to Oda Nobunaga’s memorial tomb.
- Sanjō Ōhashi BridgeThe end of the Tōkaidō, the road linking Kyoto and Edo, over a river where samurai heads were once put on display.
- Nishiki Market and Nishiki Tenmangū“Kyoto’s kitchen”: a market lane saved by a painter, ending at a shrine whose torii is wedged into the buildings.
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Early evening
Kyoto of the spirits: tanuki, wells to hell and a stone that cuts ties
- Tatsumi Daimyōjin and the Shirakawa CanalA tiny shrine where geiko come to pray and which, tradition says, was built to calm a mischievous tanuki.
- Yasaka ShrineThe shrine of the plague god and the birthplace of the Gion Matsuri, the great festival to ward off epidemics.
- Yasui Konpira-gū ShrineA paper-covered rock you crawl through to cut bad ties, under the protection of a vengeful emperor.
- Rokudō Chinnō-ji TempleThe crossroads between this world and the next, where a court official went down every night to work for the king of hell.
- Sannenzaka SlopeA stone stairway between wooden houses where, superstition says, anyone who falls will die within three years.
- Kiyomizu-dera TempleA temple hanging over the void, from whose stage hundreds of people jumped in the Edo period, trusting in Kannon.
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Dinner
Try Nishin soba at Sōhonke Nishin Soba Matsuba. Shijō-dōri Yamatoōji nishi-iru, Kawabata-chō 192, Higashiyama, Kioto
