Changdeokgung Palace

Before you stands Donhwamun, the main gate of Changdeokgung. Built in 1412 and rebuilt in 1609 after the Imjin War, it is the oldest surviving palace gate in Seoul.

1The secondary palace that became the main one

King Taejong had Changdeokgung built in 1405 as a secondary palace. But when every palace burned in 1592, it was the first to be rebuilt, and it became the kings' main residence for about 270 years while Gyeongbokgung remained in ruins.

What makes it unique is its layout. Instead of imposing a straight axis, its buildings follow the hills and the woods. That's why UNESCO made it a World Heritage Site in 1997, as an example of harmony between architecture and landscape. Behind it lies the Huwon, the "rear garden", known as the Secret Garden, with ponds and pavilions; it can usually be visited only on a guided tour with limited places.

2The last king

Changdeokgung was also where it all ended. The last emperor, Sunjong, lived here and died in the palace in 1926. His funeral that June sparked new protests against the occupation, known as the June 10th Movement.

If you go in, look for the Hyangnamu juniper, a tree about 750 years old according to official estimates.

3What to look for

• The two storeys and five bays of Donhwamun, a privilege of a royal gate.
• The painted eaves with their dancheong decoration.
• The signboard with the gate's name in Chinese characters.