Geunjeongjeon, the two-storey throne hall of Gyeongbokgung Palace with curved roofs, behind a large stone courtyard with a mountain in the background
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Seoul in 3 days

  • 3 days
  • 8.3 km on foot
  • 17 stops
  • Audio guide

Three days let you see both Seouls: the city of the Joseon kings, north of the Han River, and the city of skyscrapers and malls that grew up to the south. Each morning has its route and each afternoon a subway hop to another district, with no rushing. This is the plan for anyone who wants to understand the country, from the Secret Garden to the National Museum, and end the trip with legends at dusk.

Day 1Palaces, outside and in

Start early with “Palaces, Hanok Alleys and Tea in Insadong”: Gyeongbokgung, the slopes of Bukchon, Changdeokgung, Ikseon-dong and Jogyesa. Have seolleongtang for lunch at Imun Seolnongtang, a few steps from the temple. The afternoon is for going inside the palaces you saw from outside: the Secret Garden in your booked slot, then Gyeongbokgung, with the changing of the guard if your timing works. To finish, head back to Insadong for tea in one of its traditional teahouses.

  1. Morning

    Palaces, Hanok Alleys and Tea in Insadong

    Mixed · 3.2 km · 2 h 15 min

    1. Gyeongbokgung PalaceThe great palace of the Joseon kings, razed twice and rebuilt piece by piece.
    2. Bukchon Hanok VillageA hillside neighbourhood of traditional houses where people still live, so keep your voice down.
    3. Changdeokgung PalaceThe palace that follows the mountain rather than dominating it, home to kings for nearly three centuries.
    4. Ikseon-dongA maze of 1920s hanok turned into the liveliest corner of Jongno.
    5. Insadong and SsamziegilThe street of antiques, hanji paper and teahouses, with a spiralling market.
    6. Jogyesa TempleThe heart of Korean Buddhism among skyscrapers, with 500-year-old trees and thousands of lanterns.

    Start the audio guide See the route

  2. Lunch

    Try Seolleongtang, milky ox-bone soup at Imun Seolnongtang (이문설농탕). Ujeongguk-ro 38-13, Jongno-gu, Seúl

  3. Afternoon

    Inside Gyeongbokgung Palace

    Beyond the gate lie the Geunjeongjeon throne hall and Gyeonghoeru Pavilion, standing over its pond. The changing of the guard takes place in front of Gwanghwamun a couple of times a day. Entry is usually free if you wear hanbok: check the conditions.

    Directions

    Changdeokgung Secret Garden (Huwon)

    The kings' pleasure garden behind Changdeokgung, with pavilions set by ponds such as Buyongji among wooded hills. It can usually only be visited on a guided tour, with timed slots and limited places, so it's best to book ahead.

    Directions

Day 2From the royal shrine to Gangnam

The morning belongs to “Six Centuries of Seoul”, from Gwanghwamun Gate to Tapgol Park, where the 1919 independence movement began, and on to Jongmyo Shrine. Gwangjang Market is just a few minutes' walk away: have bindaetteok fresh from the griddle in its food alley. Carry on east along the Cheonggyecheon to Dongdaemun Design Plaza, then in the afternoon take subway Line 2 to Samseong to see modern Seoul at COEX and its Starfield Library.

  1. Morning

    Six Centuries of Seoul: From Joseon Kings to the Streets

    History · 2.4 km · 2 h

    1. Gwanghwamun GateThe great gate of Gyeongbokgung: burned, moved, rebuilt in concrete and finally returned to its rightful place.
    2. Statue of King SejongThe 15th-century monarch who decided his people deserved an alphabet of their own.
    3. Statue of Admiral Yi Sun-sinThe admiral said never to have lost a naval battle has watched over the avenue since 1968.
    4. Bosingak PavilionThe bell that opened and closed the city, and that now rings in each new year before a huge crowd.
    5. Tapgol ParkHere, on 1 March 1919, Korea's Declaration of Independence was read aloud.
    6. Jongmyo ShrineThe shrine that holds the spirit tablets of the Joseon kings, still honoured with 15th-century music.

    Start the audio guide See the route

  2. Lunch

    Try Bindaetteok, mung bean pancake at Mercado de Gwangjang · Sunhee-ne Bindaetteok (순희네빈대떡). Jongno 32-gil 5, Jongno-gu, Seúl

  3. Afternoon

    Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP)

    Zaha Hadid's curving building, opened in 2014 on the site of the old Dongdaemun Stadium, preserves remains of the city wall in its park. It hosts exhibitions and is surrounded by fashion malls that stay open very late.

    Directions

    Gangnam: COEX and Starfield Library

    The huge convention and shopping complex in Samseong, at the heart of Gangnam. Inside is Starfield Library, with shelves several storeys high, open to anyone passing through. Nearby, Bongeunsa Buddhist temple makes a striking contrast with the surrounding towers.

    Directions

Day 3From the museum to Deoksugung's legends

Spend the morning at the National Museum of Korea in Yongsan, and don't try to see it all: pick two or three galleries. Then head up Namsan to N Seoul Tower and come down towards Myeongdong for kalguksu at Myeongdong Kyoja. Take the afternoon slowly around the neighbourhood before “Secret Seoul”, which starts at Daehanmun Gate at dusk, passes the Old Russian Legation and ends at Gwangtonggyo Bridge. Dinner is naengmyeon at Woo Lae Oak, about twenty minutes' walk away.

  1. Morning

    National Museum of Korea

    One of Asia's great museums, in Yongsan, with collections spanning prehistory to the Joseon dynasty: Silla gold crowns, celadon ceramics and a ten-storey stone pagoda in the main hall. The permanent collection is usually free.

    Directions

    N Seoul Tower and Namsan

    The communications tower crowns Namsan, the mountain whose ridge carried the old city wall on the south side. Mornings mean shorter queues and often clearer air. Walk down or take the cable car towards Myeongdong, just in time for lunch.

    Directions

  2. Lunch

    Try Kalguksu, knife-cut noodles at Myeongdong Kyoja (명동교자). Myeongdong 10-gil 29, Jung-gu, Seúl

  3. Early evening

    Secret Seoul: Royal Escapes, Guardian Beasts and Cursed Stones

    Mysteries & legends · 2.7 km · 1 h 55 min

    1. Daehanmun Gate, Deoksugung PalaceThe gate of a palace where an emperor died in 1919 amid rumours that set a country alight.
    2. Deoksugung Stone Wall RoadSeoul's most romantic stroll comes with a superstition: couples who walk it end up breaking up.
    3. Old Russian LegationA lone white tower keeps alive the memory of the night Korea's king fled his own palace.
    4. The Haechi of GwanghwamunTwo horned stone beasts that, according to popular belief, guard the palace against fire.
    5. Gwangtonggyo BridgeA king used stones from his stepmother's tomb to build a bridge the whole city would walk over.

    Start the audio guide See the route

  4. Dinner

    Try Naengmyeon, Pyongyang cold noodles at Woo Lae Oak (우래옥). Changgyeonggung-ro 62-29, Jung-gu, Seúl

The map

Seoul in 3 days, on the map

Each route’s stops are numbered in order; the stars are the extra sights.

Mixed History Mysteries & legends Extra sight

Loading the map…

Before you go

Tips for Seoul in 3 days

  • Seoul's subway is fast, clean and signposted in English; with a T-money card, usually sold at convenience stores, the hops to Gangnam or Yongsan are easy. Compare the tourist options before you buy.
  • Several places close on a fixed day: Gyeongbokgung usually on Tuesdays, Changdeokgung and Woo Lae Oak on Mondays. Arrange the days around your own calendar and check opening times before you go.
  • If you have energy left one evening, Hongdae, the student district around Hongik University, has live music and street performers. It's about twenty minutes from the centre by subway.

Questions

Seoul in 3 days: your questions

Is the DMZ worth visiting?

If you're interested in the history of the Korean War, yes, but it takes a full day and can only be visited on an organised tour; some areas require advance booking and your passport. If you go, swap it for day three and check beforehand that tours are running.

How far will I walk in 3 days?

The routes add up to about 8.3 km: 3.2 on day one, 2.4 on day two and 2.7 on day three. What really tires you out is walking inside the palaces and the Secret Garden, the museum galleries, the climb up Namsan and subway transfers.

Where should I stay for this itinerary?

In the centre, between Jongno, Insadong, Myeongdong and the City Hall area: two of the three days start there and almost everything is on foot. For Gangnam and the National Museum, the subway gets you there quickly without awkward transfers.

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