Joseon dynasty palaces, hanok alleys and six centuries of history among the skyscrapers.
Seoul was the capital of the Joseon dynasty for more than five hundred years, then of a short-lived empire, a Japanese colony and, after a devastating war, a democracy won in the streets. That history is still on show in its palace gates, its shrines, its neighbourhoods of traditional houses and its legends. Three free walks to explore Jongno, Jeong-dong and Bukchon on foot, at your own pace.
Choose your free tour
All routes are free and can be combined. If it’s your first visit, start with the mixed route.
A gate rebuilt four times, a king who invented an alphabet, a bell that rang the curfew and the park where the cry of 1919 began.
An emperor who died amid rumours, a king who fled in a palanquin, a beast against fire and a bridge built from a queen's tomb.
Seoul's highlights on foot: two palaces, the traditional houses of Bukchon and Ikseon-dong, the antiques quarter and the great Buddhist temple downtown.
The map
The routes cross in the old town. Tap a point to see which story awaits you there.
Filled points already have a published article; the rest are in the works.
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Itineraries
We’ve planned it day by day for you: which routes to walk and in what order, what else to see and where to eat.
All three routes in one full day: the highlights, the history and the legends at dusk.
See the itinerary 2A gentler pace: the three routes over two days, plus extra sights and where to eat.
See the itinerary 3The city in depth: one route a day, extra museums and neighbourhoods, and a day for good food.
See the itineraryWhat to eat
The dishes you can’t leave without trying, and the classic spots that have been serving them for years.
A milky broth of ox bones simmered for hours, with slices of beef and noodles, which everyone seasons at the table with salt and spring onion. Imun Seolnongtang, just off Insadong and a stone's throw from Jogyesa, prides itself on being one of Seoul's oldest restaurants: the perfect lunch after the must-see walk.
Where to try it
Freshly ground mung beans fried in plenty of oil with bean sprouts and kimchi until golden and crisp, then dipped in soy sauce with onion. At Gwangjang Market, open since 1905, they're fried in front of you in the food alley, which stays busy into the evening; wash one down with a bowl of makgeolli, Korean rice wine. It's a walk of about twenty minutes along the Cheonggyecheon from the end of the mystery route.
Where to try it
Hand-cut wheat noodles in a rich chicken broth with minced meat and mandu dumplings, served with a fiercely garlicky kimchi. Myeongdong Kyoja has been serving it since 1966 in the heart of the Myeongdong shopping district, and it makes a quick, hearty lunch.
Where to try it
Thin buckwheat noodles in a cold, subtle, slightly tangy beef broth, topped with slices of meat, pear and egg. It's a dish from the north of the peninsula, brought to Seoul by refugees. Woo Lae Oak, open since 1946, also serves it in the evening and is ideal for dinner after the mystery route; order its bulgogi too.
Where to try it
A thick, warm red bean cream with glutinous rice balls, chestnuts and cinnamon: the dessert of Korean grandmothers. In Samcheong-dong, a few minutes from Bukchon, Seoul-eseo Duljjaero Jalhaneun Jip ("the second-best place in Seoul") has been making it since 1976. For an afternoon snack, try a hotteok too, the street pancake filled with brown sugar, or a bingsu of shaved ice with red beans.
Where to try it
