Day 1A day at the Joseon court
Set out early on “Palaces, Hanok Alleys and Tea in Insadong” so you cross Bukchon mid-morning, then lunch on seolleongtang at Imun Seolnongtang, next to Jogyesa. In the afternoon, go back to the palaces you saw from outside: explore Gyeongbokgung and, if you've booked, join the guided tour of Changdeokgung's Secret Garden. Take a break in a teahouse before “Secret Seoul”, which starts at Daehanmun Gate at dusk and finishes at Gwangtonggyo Bridge. From there, follow the Cheonggyecheon to Gwangjang Market for a dinner of bindaetteok.
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Morning
Palaces, Hanok Alleys and Tea in Insadong
- Gyeongbokgung PalaceThe great palace of the Joseon kings, razed twice and rebuilt piece by piece.
- Bukchon Hanok VillageA hillside neighbourhood of traditional houses where people still live, so keep your voice down.
- Changdeokgung PalaceThe palace that follows the mountain rather than dominating it, home to kings for nearly three centuries.
- Ikseon-dongA maze of 1920s hanok turned into the liveliest corner of Jongno.
- Insadong and SsamziegilThe street of antiques, hanji paper and teahouses, with a spiralling market.
- Jogyesa TempleThe heart of Korean Buddhism among skyscrapers, with 500-year-old trees and thousands of lanterns.
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Lunch
Try Seolleongtang, milky ox-bone soup at Imun Seolnongtang (이문설농탕). Ujeongguk-ro 38-13, Jongno-gu, Seúl
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Afternoon
Inside Gyeongbokgung Palace
Beyond the gate lie the Geunjeongjeon throne hall and Gyeonghoeru Pavilion, standing over its pond. The changing of the guard takes place in front of Gwanghwamun a couple of times a day. Entry is usually free if you wear hanbok: check the conditions.
DirectionsChangdeokgung Secret Garden (Huwon)
The kings' pleasure garden behind Changdeokgung, with pavilions set by ponds such as Buyongji among wooded hills. It can usually only be visited on a guided tour, with timed slots and limited places, so it's best to book ahead.
Directions -
Early evening
Secret Seoul: Royal Escapes, Guardian Beasts and Cursed Stones
- Daehanmun Gate, Deoksugung PalaceThe gate of a palace where an emperor died in 1919 amid rumours that set a country alight.
- Deoksugung Stone Wall RoadSeoul's most romantic stroll comes with a superstition: couples who walk it end up breaking up.
- Old Russian LegationA lone white tower keeps alive the memory of the night Korea's king fled his own palace.
- The Haechi of GwanghwamunTwo horned stone beasts that, according to popular belief, guard the palace against fire.
- Gwangtonggyo BridgeA king used stones from his stepmother's tomb to build a bridge the whole city would walk over.
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Dinner
Try Bindaetteok, mung bean pancake at Mercado de Gwangjang · Sunhee-ne Bindaetteok (순희네빈대떡). Jongno 32-gil 5, Jongno-gu, Seúl
