One day in SeoulPalaces, kings and cursed stones
Start early with “Palaces, Hanok Alleys and Tea in Insadong”: Gyeongbokgung, the slopes of Bukchon, Changdeokgung and Jogyesa Temple. Have seolleongtang for lunch at Imun Seolnongtang, a few steps from the temple. In the afternoon, “Six Centuries of Seoul” takes you from Gwanghwamun and King Sejong to Tapgol Park, a good place for a breather, and on to Jongmyo Shrine. At dusk, “Secret Seoul” sets off from Daehanmun Gate and ends at Gwangtonggyo Bridge on the Cheonggyecheon stream. From there it's about twenty minutes on foot to the bindaetteok pancakes of Gwangjang Market.
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Morning
Palaces, Hanok Alleys and Tea in Insadong
- Gyeongbokgung PalaceThe great palace of the Joseon kings, razed twice and rebuilt piece by piece.
- Bukchon Hanok VillageA hillside neighbourhood of traditional houses where people still live, so keep your voice down.
- Changdeokgung PalaceThe palace that follows the mountain rather than dominating it, home to kings for nearly three centuries.
- Ikseon-dongA maze of 1920s hanok turned into the liveliest corner of Jongno.
- Insadong and SsamziegilThe street of antiques, hanji paper and teahouses, with a spiralling market.
- Jogyesa TempleThe heart of Korean Buddhism among skyscrapers, with 500-year-old trees and thousands of lanterns.
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Lunch
Try Seolleongtang, milky ox-bone soup at Imun Seolnongtang (이문설농탕). Ujeongguk-ro 38-13, Jongno-gu, Seúl
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Afternoon
Six Centuries of Seoul: From Joseon Kings to the Streets
- Gwanghwamun GateThe great gate of Gyeongbokgung: burned, moved, rebuilt in concrete and finally returned to its rightful place.
- Statue of King SejongThe 15th-century monarch who decided his people deserved an alphabet of their own.
- Statue of Admiral Yi Sun-sinThe admiral said never to have lost a naval battle has watched over the avenue since 1968.
- Bosingak PavilionThe bell that opened and closed the city, and that now rings in each new year before a huge crowd.
- Tapgol ParkHere, on 1 March 1919, Korea's Declaration of Independence was read aloud.
- Jongmyo ShrineThe shrine that holds the spirit tablets of the Joseon kings, still honoured with 15th-century music.
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Early evening
Secret Seoul: Royal Escapes, Guardian Beasts and Cursed Stones
- Daehanmun Gate, Deoksugung PalaceThe gate of a palace where an emperor died in 1919 amid rumours that set a country alight.
- Deoksugung Stone Wall RoadSeoul's most romantic stroll comes with a superstition: couples who walk it end up breaking up.
- Old Russian LegationA lone white tower keeps alive the memory of the night Korea's king fled his own palace.
- The Haechi of GwanghwamunTwo horned stone beasts that, according to popular belief, guard the palace against fire.
- Gwangtonggyo BridgeA king used stones from his stepmother's tomb to build a bridge the whole city would walk over.
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Dinner
Try Bindaetteok, mung bean pancake at Mercado de Gwangjang · Sunhee-ne Bindaetteok (순희네빈대떡). Jongno 32-gil 5, Jongno-gu, Seúl
