Dajing Pavilion and the Last City Wall

In front of you is the last visible piece of the wall that encircled Shanghai for more than three centuries. The streets you came along, Renmin Lu and Zhonghua Lu, still follow its line: together they form an almost perfect circle around the Old City.

1A wall against pirates

In the mid-sixteenth century, the wokou, pirates who raided the Chinese coast, attacked Shanghai several times and even set the town on fire. In 1553, taking advantage of a lull in the raids, residents built in just a few months a wall some nine li around, a little over four kilometres, with six gates. More were opened later.

After the 1911 revolution, the wall was seen as an obstacle to traffic and trade. It was pulled down between 1912 and 1914, and the avenues you see today were laid over its moat. This stretch survived because it held up a temple.

2The god on top of the wall

In the Wanli era, at the end of the sixteenth century, a temple to Guan Yu was built on the wall. Guan Yu was a third-century general who became the god of war and protector of commerce. In 1815 the temple was rebuilt as a three-storey pavilion, and in 1836 an arch was placed in front bearing the inscription “Daqian shengjing”, which gave Dajing its name.

According to tradition, Guan Yu kept watch over the city from here, and merchants climbed up to ask for his protection for their business and their journeys.

The pavilion burned and was rebuilt several times. It has been open to the public since 1995.

3What to look for

• The battlements of the wall, in grey brick.
• The upturned eaves of the pavilion, with figures at the tips.
• The contrast with the surrounding skyscrapers.