Day 1Lanes, gardens and lanterns
Set off early on “French Concession Highlights”, from the First Congress House to Fuxing Park and the villas of Sinan Road, finishing among the workshops of Tianzifang. A short taxi ride takes you to the Old City for xiaolongbao at Nanxiang, a few steps from the zigzag bridge. Afterwards, go into Yu Garden and then, to rest your legs, take the ferry across the Huangpu and back: you'll see the Bund and Pudong from the water. At dusk, when the lanterns come on, do the gods-and-pirates walk from Dajing Pavilion and have hongshao rou for dinner at Shanghai Lao Fandian.
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Morning
French Concession Highlights: Plane Trees, Villas and Lanes
- Xintiandi and the First Congress HouseA 1920 shikumen house where, in July 1921, thirteen delegates met to found the Chinese Communist Party.
- Fuxing ParkThe old “French Park”, where the city now dances, plays mahjong and practises tai chi under the plane trees.
- Sun Yat-sen's HouseThe villa that Chinese emigrants in Canada gave to the father of modern China, where he lived with Soong Ching-ling.
- Sinan Road and its VillasThe former Rue Massenet, a street of villas where Zhou Enlai and the great opera star Mei Lanfang once lived.
- TianzifangA maze of shikumen lanes that artists saved from demolition, now packed with studios and cafés.
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Lunch
Try Nanxiang xiaolongbao at Nanxiang Mantou Dian (南翔馒头店). Yuyuan Lu, 85, junto al puente en zigzag, Huangpu, Shanghái
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Afternoon
Yu Garden
A classical garden that the official Pan Yunduan began building in 1559 for his parents: rockeries, carp ponds, galleries and pavilions packed into a small space. There's an entry fee and it gets crowded; go straight after lunch and check opening times beforehand.
DirectionsHuangpu ferry (Shiliupu–Dongchang Road)
The public ferry locals use to cross the river in a few minutes for very little money. From the deck you get one of the best views of the Bund and the Pudong skyline. It's usually paid with a transport card or by phone; check at the pier.
Directions -
Early evening
Gods, Pirates and Spirits of the Old City
- Dajing Pavilion and the Last City WallThe only surviving stretch of the wall built in 1553 against pirates, watched over from above by the god of war.
- Fangbang Road, the Old StreetA canal buried in 1913 and a secret society that held the city for eighteen months.
- The City God TempleThe temple of Shanghai's three guardians, one of them a scholar who refused to serve the emperor while he lived.
- Huxinting Teahouse and the Zigzag BridgeShanghai's oldest teahouse, in the middle of a pond, and a nine-turn bridge against evil spirits.
- Chenxiangge, the Agarwood PavilionA small Buddhist temple born of a statue of Guanyin rescued, so the story goes, from a sunken boat.
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Dinner
Try Hongshao rou, Shanghai-style braised pork at Shanghai Lao Fandian (上海老饭店). Fuyou Lu, 242, Huangpu, Shanghái
