Romans, caliphs and philosophers on the Guadalquivir: the city that was once the capital of a world.
Córdoba was the capital of Roman Baetica, the birthplace of Seneca and the heart of the Umayyad caliphate, when it ranked among the largest and most learned cities in Europe. That past is still in plain sight in a Roman temple, in the Mosque-Cathedral, in Maimonides’ Jewish quarter and in the bridge that has crossed the Guadalquivir for twenty centuries. Three free routes to explore it on foot, at your own pace, among flower-filled patios, legends and old taverns.
Choose your free tour
All routes are free and can be combined. If it’s your first visit, start with the mixed route.
A Roman temple, Nero’s philosopher, the synagogue of the Jewish quarter, the viziers’ gate and the fortress where the Catholic Monarchs prepared the conquest of Granada.
A Christ lit by eight lanterns, Cervantes’ square of rogues, the oath of St Raphael, the waterwheel that kept Isabella awake and Córdoba’s narrowest street.
The Castilian main square, the lane of flowerpots, the Courtyard of the Orange Trees, the twenty-century bridge and the patios of San Basilio.
The map
The routes cross in the old town. Tap a point to see which story awaits you there.
Filled points already have a published article; the rest are in the works.
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Itineraries
We’ve planned it day by day for you: which routes to walk and in what order, what else to see and where to eat.
All three routes in one full day: the highlights, the history and the legends at dusk.
See the itinerary 2A gentler pace: the three routes over two days, plus extra sights and where to eat.
See the itinerary 3The city in depth: one route a day, extra museums and neighbourhoods, and a day for good food.
See the itineraryWhat to eat
The dishes you can’t leave without trying, and the classic spots that have been serving them for years.
Ripe tomatoes, day-old bread, garlic and extra virgin olive oil, blended into a thick, chilled cream and topped with hard-boiled egg and cured ham. It opens almost every proper Cordoban meal. At Taberna Salinas, a family-run tavern near the Corredera with more than a century of history, you eat it in a tiled courtyard hung with old photographs.
Where to try it
Oxtail slowly braised with wine, vegetables and spices until the meat falls off the bone. At Casa Pepe de la Judería, a stone’s throw from the Mosque and a tavern since before 1928, it is one of the house classics; at Bodegas Campos, among wine casks signed by famous visitors, it is a speciality too. Perfect for an unhurried dinner.
Where to try it
A roll of pork loin and serrano ham, breaded and fried, served in slices with chips. Taberna San Miguel, better known as Casa El Pisto, opened beside the church of San Miguel in 1880 and still has its old bar and bullfighting posters: a great place to order it at lunchtime.
Where to try it
Thin sticks of aubergine, battered and fried to order, drizzled with cane honey: crunchy, sweet and salty all at once. It is one of the most popular dishes in Córdoba’s taverns. At Bodegas Mezquita on calle Céspedes, a few metres from the Mosque, the kitchen stays open all day, which makes it ideal for dinner at the end of the legends route.
Where to try it
A gigantic tortilla, as tall as a cake, cut into generous wedges and eaten standing up with the Mosque right opposite. Bar Santos, a tiny bar on calle Magistral González Francés, has been making it this way since the 1960s. Perfect for a mid-morning snack or a savoury afternoon bite.
Where to try it
Two layers of puff pastry filled with cabello de ángel, a sweet preserve of spun squash, dusted with sugar and cinnamon. Some old recipes added ham to the filling. You will find it in almost every pastry shop in town, such as Roldán, a Córdoba bakery with several branches: ideal for breakfast or an afternoon treat.
Where to try it
Córdoba’s wine is aged in the countryside south of the province, mainly from Pedro Ximénez grapes, and ranges from dry, sharp fino to amontillado, oloroso and the syrupy Pedro Ximénez. At Bodega Guzmán, a tavern on calle Judíos lined with bullfighting posters, it is poured straight from the cask: a glass of fino is the best aperitif before lunch.
Where to try it
