One day in GranadaFrom Nasrid bazaar to legends
Start early with “Granada highlights: from the cathedral to the viewpoint”: the Alcaicería, the Corral del Carbón, the Carrera del Darro and the climb to the Mirador de San Nicolás, with the Alhambra straight across. Head down for broad beans with ham at Los Manueles, then pick up “From the Zirids to Lorca”, which sets off from the Elvira Gate, passes El Bañuelo and the Royal Chapel and ends on Plaza del Campillo, a good spot for coffee. Late in the day, climb the Cuesta de Gomérez for “Legends in the shadow of the Alhambra”, which finishes on Bib-Rambla. Dinner is fried fish at Los Diamantes.
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Morning
Granada highlights: from the cathedral to the viewpoint
- Granada CathedralIt began Gothic, turned Renaissance and ended up with a facade that looks like a Roman triumphal arch.
- The AlcaiceríaThe old silk bazaar, locked with chains at night, was reborn after a fire as a fairy-tale vision of the Orient.
- Corral del CarbónThe only Nasrid merchants’ inn in Spain to survive intact: traders’ lodging, theatre and tenement house.
- Plaza Nueva and the Royal ChanceryA square built on top of a river, presided over by one of the great palaces of justice of sixteenth-century Spain.
- Carrera del Darro and Paseo de los TristesGranada’s prettiest street follows the river to a promenade with the Alhambra right above it.
- Mirador de San NicolásGranada’s most famous balcony: the whole Alhambra with Sierra Nevada behind.
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Lunch
Try Broad beans with ham (habas con jamón) at Los Manueles. Calle Reyes Católicos, 61
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Afternoon
From the Zirids to Lorca: a thousand years of Granada
- Elvira Gate (Puerta de Elvira)The great entrance to Islamic Granada, crossed by caravans, ambassadors and conquerors for almost a thousand years.
- Arco de las Pesas and Plaza LargaA bent Zirid gateway at the top of the Morisco Albaicín, with a name that hints at rigged scales.
- El BañueloOne of the best-preserved Arab bathhouses in Spain, hidden behind a humble facade by the river Darro.
- Monument to the Capitulations of Santa FeIsabella the Catholic listens to Columbus in bronze, on the square where Granada remembers the year that changed everything.
- Royal Chapel (Capilla Real)Isabella and Ferdinand chose Granada, their final conquest, as their resting place for eternity.
- Plaza del Campillo: Lorca’s RinconcilloIn the corner of a café on this square, a young García Lorca shared verses and plans with his friends.
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Early evening
Legends in the shadow of the Alhambra
- Pomegranate Gate (Puerta de las Granadas)A triumphal arch built under Charles V marks the entrance to the woods where the legends of the Alhambra begin.
- Statue of Washington IrvingThe American writer who lived in the Alhambra and filled it with princesses, treasures and astrologers.
- Gate of Justice (Puerta de la Justicia)A hand carved on the arch, a key further in, and a prophecy: when they touch, the Alhambra will fall.
- Campo del Príncipe and the Cristo de los FavoresEvery Good Friday at three in the afternoon, thousands of locals gather here to ask a stone cross for three favours.
- Casa de los TirosA palace with muskets on its battlements, stone heroes and a sword thrust through a heart.
- Plaza de Bib-RamblaTournaments, bullfights, a bonfire of books and a gate that ended up in the woods: Granada’s square with the most lives.
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Dinner
Try Fried fish and aubergines (pescaíto frito) at Bar Los Diamantes. Calle Navas, 28
