One day in RomeAll of Rome in a day
Start early at the Spanish Steps with the route "From the Spanish Steps to St Peter's": the Trevi Fountain is a different place at that hour, and the Pantheon and Piazza Navona sit right on the way. Take your carbonara break near the Pantheon, then hop on the metro or a bus to the Colosseum for "The Rome of the Caesars, stone by stone", which runs past the Arch of Constantine and Trajan's Column to the Theatre of Marcellus. As the light fades, "Biting mouths and talking statues" begins at the Mouth of Truth and ends at Campo de' Fiori. Have your cacio e pepe in Testaccio.
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Morning
From the Spanish Steps to St Peter's
- Piazza di Spagna and the Spanish StepsA staircase paid for by a French diplomat, in a square named after a Spanish embassy.
- The Trevi FountainA two-thousand-year-old aqueduct flows into the most famous water theatre in the world.
- The PantheonThe best-preserved Roman building in the world, with a dome that has been breaking records for nearly nineteen centuries.
- Piazza NavonaRome's great Baroque living room, with three fountains in a row on the track of a Roman stadium.
- Castel Sant'AngeloAn emperor's tomb turned into a fortress, a prison and a refuge for the popes.
- St Peter's SquareBernini's embrace in stone, an obelisk that never fell and a border you cross without a passport.
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Lunch
Try Spaghetti alla carbonara at Armando al Pantheon. Salita de' Crescenzi, 31
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Afternoon
The Rome of the Caesars, stone by stone
- The ColosseumThe largest amphitheatre of the Roman world, built over Nero's private lake and plundered for centuries as a quarry.
- The Arch of ConstantineThe largest surviving Roman triumphal arch is, to a large extent, a collage of reliefs taken from earlier emperors.
- The Forum of Augustus and Via dei Fori ImperialiA temple vowed to avenge Julius Caesar, and a Fascist avenue that cut the forums in two.
- Trajan's ColumnTwo hundred metres of spiral relief tell the story of a war, and an emperor's ashes once lay in its base.
- Piazza del CampidoglioThe sacred hill of ancient Rome, turned by Michelangelo into a perfect square that still governs the city.
- The Theatre of MarcellusA theatre built by Augustus that became a medieval fortress, then a palace, with flats that are still lived in.
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Early evening
Biting mouths and talking statues
- The Mouth of TruthA marble mask that, legend says, snaps shut on the hand of anyone who lies.
- Largo di Torre ArgentinaFour Republican temples, a colony of cats and, at the back, the spot where Julius Caesar was stabbed.
- The Minerva elephantBernini's elephant carries an obelisk on its back and, tradition says, points its rear at its critics.
- Piazza NavonaA fountain, a church and the most famous rivalry of the Baroque… which the dates prove false.
- The statue of PasquinoA battered torso that for centuries was the anonymous, and venomous, voice of the Roman people.
- Campo de' FioriA cheerful market around the statue of a philosopher who was burned alive in this very square.
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Dinner
Try Cacio e pepe at Felice a Testaccio. Via Mastro Giorgio, 29
