Day 1The Alhambra, outside and in
Open with “Granada highlights: from the cathedral to the viewpoint”, from the Alcaicería to the Mirador de San Nicolás, so you see the whole Alhambra before you set foot in it. Lunch on broad beans with ham at Los Manueles, then head up to the Alhambra for your palace entry slot, booked well in advance. On the way out, walk down through the woods to the Pomegranate Gate and follow “Legends in the shadow of the Alhambra”, with Washington Irving and the hand on the Gate of Justice, all the way to Bib-Rambla. Dinner is fried fish at Los Diamantes.
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Morning
Granada highlights: from the cathedral to the viewpoint
- Granada CathedralIt began Gothic, turned Renaissance and ended up with a facade that looks like a Roman triumphal arch.
- The AlcaiceríaThe old silk bazaar, locked with chains at night, was reborn after a fire as a fairy-tale vision of the Orient.
- Corral del CarbónThe only Nasrid merchants’ inn in Spain to survive intact: traders’ lodging, theatre and tenement house.
- Plaza Nueva and the Royal ChanceryA square built on top of a river, presided over by one of the great palaces of justice of sixteenth-century Spain.
- Carrera del Darro and Paseo de los TristesGranada’s prettiest street follows the river to a promenade with the Alhambra right above it.
- Mirador de San NicolásGranada’s most famous balcony: the whole Alhambra with Sierra Nevada behind.
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Lunch
Try Broad beans with ham (habas con jamón) at Los Manueles. Calle Reyes Católicos, 61
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Afternoon
Alhambra: Nasrid Palaces and Alcazaba
The palace city of the Nasrid sultans: the Alcazaba fortress, the Palace of Charles V and the Nasrid Palaces, with the Court of the Lions and the Court of the Myrtles. Palace entry usually has a fixed time and tickets go fast, so book as soon as you know your date.
DirectionsGeneralife
The sultans' country estate on the neighbouring hill: vegetable gardens, cypress walks and the Court of the Water Channel, with its long pool running between the flowers. It's usually included in the general Alhambra ticket; leave it for the end of your visit, as the sun drops.
Directions -
Early evening
Legends in the shadow of the Alhambra
- Pomegranate Gate (Puerta de las Granadas)A triumphal arch built under Charles V marks the entrance to the woods where the legends of the Alhambra begin.
- Statue of Washington IrvingThe American writer who lived in the Alhambra and filled it with princesses, treasures and astrologers.
- Gate of Justice (Puerta de la Justicia)A hand carved on the arch, a key further in, and a prophecy: when they touch, the Alhambra will fall.
- Campo del Príncipe and the Cristo de los FavoresEvery Good Friday at three in the afternoon, thousands of locals gather here to ask a stone cross for three favours.
- Casa de los TirosA palace with muskets on its battlements, stone heroes and a sword thrust through a heart.
- Plaza de Bib-RamblaTournaments, bullfights, a bonfire of books and a gate that ended up in the woods: Granada’s square with the most lives.
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Dinner
Try Fried fish and aubergines (pescaíto frito) at Bar Los Diamantes. Calle Navas, 28
