One day in LisbonThe seven hills in a day
Start early at Rossio with “The best of Lisbon: from the Baixa to Chiado and back to the river”: the Santa Justa Lift, the Carmo Convent and A Brasileira, where there's room for a bica. For lunch, a pastel de nata at Confeitaria Nacional on Praça da Figueira, close by. In the afternoon, “From Olisipo to the earthquake” climbs from Praça do Comércio to the Sé, the Roman theatre and São Jorge Castle: save your legs for the hills. As the sun sets, “Dark Lisbon” runs from Rossio to Santa Engrácia. Dinner is a bacalhau à Brás.
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Morning
The best of Lisbon: from the Baixa to Chiado and back to the river
- RossioLisbon's people's square since the Middle Ages, with wave-patterned paving that ended up travelling all the way to Rio de Janeiro.
- Santa Justa LiftA lacy iron tower that has carried Lisboetas from the Baixa up to Carmo since 1902, and which Eiffel did not design.
- Carmo Convent and Largo do CarmoA Gothic church left roofless by the earthquake, and a square where a dictatorship fell in 1974.
- Miradouro de São Pedro de AlcântaraA garden on two terraces with all of Lisbon spread out in front of you: the castle, the Baixa and the eastern hills.
- Chiado and A BrasileiraThe poets' quarter, where Fernando Pessoa still sits outside his café and where the word ‘bica’ was born.
- Rua Augusta ArchThe triumphal arch that crowns the Lisbon rebuilt after the earthquake and opens the city to the river.
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Lunch
Try Pastel de nata at Pastéis de Belém. Rua de Belém, 84-92
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Afternoon
From Olisipo to the earthquake: twenty centuries uphill
- Praça do ComércioThe kings' palace stood here until the morning of 1 November 1755 wiped it off the map.
- Casa dos BicosA palace bristling with stone spikes, built with Indian fortune and now watched over by an olive tree holding Saramago's ashes.
- Lisbon Cathedral (Sé)The cathedral raised by Portugal's first king after conquering the city, built like a fortress and scarred by several earthquakes.
- Roman TheatreBeneath the houses of Alfama slept a theatre dedicated to Nero, forgotten by everyone until 1798.
- Miradouro de Santa LuziaA balcony over Alfama where two tile panels show you the Lisbon the earthquake swallowed.
- São Jorge CastleAt the top of the hill, the fortress that was a Moorish citadel, a royal palace and the setting of the 1147 conquest.
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Early evening
Dark Lisbon: inquisitors, ravens and a curse
- Rossio and the Inquisition palaceWhere a theatre now stands, Portugal's most feared court sat for more than two centuries.
- Church of São DomingosA church with fire-cracked columns, where in 1506 the worst massacre in Lisbon's history began.
- Church of Saint AnthonyAccording to tradition, Lisbon's best-loved saint was born here: the one who finds lost things and arranges marriages.
- Lisbon Cathedral and the ravens of Saint VincentA boat, two ravens and a martyr's relics: the legend that became Lisbon's coat of arms.
- Church of Santa Engrácia (National Pantheon)The church that took 284 years to finish, and the curse of a condemned young man who, so the story goes, predicted it.
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Dinner
Try Bacalhau à Brás at Martinho da Arcada. Praça do Comércio, 3
