One day in BilbaoTitanium, stone and pintxos
Start around 9.30 at the Zubizuri bridge with "Titanium, flowers and iron: Bilbao highlights": the river is still quiet and you can photograph Puppy and Maman without a crowd. The route ends at Azkuna Zentroa; from there, a stroll through the Ensanche brings you to Plaza Nueva for salt cod pil-pil. In the afternoon, follow "From town charter to iron port", from San Antón Bridge to City Hall. As the light fades, head up to Begoña and walk back down with "The Amatxu, the idol and the dog fountain" to San Nicolás. Dinner is pintxos and txikiteo on Plaza Nueva.
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Morning
Titanium, flowers and iron: Bilbao highlights
- Zubizuri and the Isozaki TowersA white Calatrava bridge, a Japanese-designed stairway and a lawsuit over a cut railing.
- Guggenheim Museum and PuppyA dog made of 38,000 flowers guards the building that changed Bilbao.
- Maman and La Salve BridgeA nine-metre spider dedicated to a mother, and a bridge named after a sailors’ prayer.
- Fine Arts Museum and Doña Casilda ParkTen centuries of art beside the ducks of a park named after a maid who became Bilbao’s great benefactor.
- Plaza Elíptica and the Gran VíaThe heart of the Ensanche: an iron magnate’s palace and Norman Foster’s glass metro entrances.
- Azkuna Zentroa (Alhóndiga)A 1909 wine warehouse that Philippe Starck turned into a cultural centre held up by 43 different columns.
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Lunch
Try Salt cod pil-pil or Biscay-style at Víctor Montes. Plaza Nueva, 8
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Afternoon
From town charter to iron port
- San Antón Church and BridgeThe church and bridge Bilbao carries on its coat of arms: this is where it all began.
- Ribera MarketSeven centuries of buying and selling on the riverbank, in one of Europe’s largest covered markets.
- Santiago Cathedral and the Seven StreetsThe pilgrims’ church at the centre of the seven streets that, for centuries, were all of Bilbao.
- Plaza NuevaThe great arcaded square dreamt up by the Enlightenment, which took sixty-five years to become real.
- Arriaga Theatre and the ArenalAn 1890 theatre that survived a fire and the 1983 flood, facing the riverside that held out against the Carlist sieges.
- Bilbao City HallThe town hall built by a city grown rich on iron, beside the river that made it all possible.
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Early evening
The Amatxu, the idol and the dog fountain
- Basilica of BegoñaThe Amatxu who, legend says, chose her hill and refused to come down.
- Old Mallona CemeteryA lonely gateway halfway up the hill is all that remains of Bilbao’s first municipal cemetery.
- Miguel de Unamuno SquareA stone idol more than two thousand years old, with inscriptions no one has managed to read, next to Unamuno’s birthplace.
- Dog FountainThree bronze lions and a name nobody can fully explain.
- Church of San Nicolás and the ArenalThe church of the fishermen’s saint, facing the riverside where Marijaia appears and bids farewell every August.
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Dinner
Try Pintxos and txikiteo on Plaza Nueva at Café Bar Bilbao. Plaza Nueva, 6
