Day 1Postcards and shadows
Start at Trafalgar Square with «From Nelson to the royal balcony», which runs down Whitehall to Westminster and ends at Buckingham Palace. Have fish and chips, for example at The Rock & Sole Plaice in Covent Garden, and spend your free afternoon at the National Gallery and Covent Garden itself, ten minutes away on foot. As the light fades, head to London Stone for «Ghosts, hangmen and a demon barber»: Newgate, Smithfield and Fleet Street to the Temple. Then dinner is pie and mash at M. Manze in Bermondsey.
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Morning
From Nelson to the royal balcony: picture-postcard London
- Trafalgar SquareLondon's great square celebrates a naval battle fought off Cádiz and the admiral who died winning it.
- Horse Guards and the Banqueting HouseMotionless horsemen on one side of the street and, on the other, the window Charles I stepped through to the scaffold.
- Big Ben and the Palace of WestminsterA fire in 1834 gave London its most famous skyline, and the bell everyone calls Big Ben cracked within months.
- Westminster AbbeyEnglish monarchs have been crowned here since 1066, and above its door stands an archbishop from El Salvador.
- St James's ParkLondon's oldest royal park has had pelicans since 1664 and, from its bridge, the loveliest view of the palace.
- Buckingham PalaceA duke's house turned into the world's most famous palace, with a balcony that has seen more than a century of history.
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Lunch
Try Fish and chips at The Rock & Sole Plaice. 47 Endell Street, Covent Garden
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Afternoon
National Gallery
One of the world's great picture galleries, right beside Trafalgar Square, with European painting from the Middle Ages to the early twentieth century. With a free afternoon, be selective: pick two or three rooms and don't try to see everything. General admission is free.
DirectionsCovent Garden
A former fruit-and-vegetable market turned into a corner of shops, cafes and street performers under a large covered hall. It's a short stroll from the National Gallery, ideal for a cup of tea or a breather before the evening walk.
Directions -
Early evening
Ghosts, hangmen and a demon barber
- London StoneA block of limestone behind glass in an office front, on which London's fortunes depend, according to a fake prophecy.
- St Sepulchre and the Newgate bellOpposite the old Newgate Prison, this church keeps the handbell that announced their last night to the condemned.
- The Golden Boy of Pye Corner and Cock LaneA plump golden boy marks where the Great Fire stopped, on the corner of the street of the 18th century's most famous ghost.
- St Bartholomew the Great and SmithfieldA vision in Rome, London's oldest church still in use and the open ground where William Wallace was executed.
- St Dunstan-in-the-West and Sweeney ToddTwo giants striking the hours, a statue of Elizabeth I said to be made in her lifetime and fiction's most fearsome barber.
- Temple ChurchThe round church of the Knights Templar, with stone knights lying on the floor and a secret invented by a novel.
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Dinner
Try Pie and mash with eels at M. Manze. 87 Tower Bridge Road, Bermondsey
