Day 1Shibuya, gardens and temples at dusk
In the morning, “From Hachikō to the sacred forest”: Hachikō, Shibuya Crossing, Takeshita-dōri and Meiji Shrine. Have sushi at Yoshino Sushi in Nihonbashi, and keep the afternoon free for Ginza and the Hama-rikyū gardens, from where a boat runs to Asakusa. There, at dusk, “Kappa, a bodiless Buddha and hidden gods” leads you from Sensō-ji to Kappabashi and Shinobazu Pond. Have tempura in Asakusa, a short walk from where the route begins.
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Morning
From Hachikō to the sacred forest: Shibuya, Harajuku and Meiji Jingū
- Hachikō StatueAn Akita dog who waited for his owner for almost ten years and became the meeting point for the whole of Tokyo.
- Shibuya CrossingWhen every traffic light turns red for cars, a human tide crosses in all directions at once.
- Omotesandō AvenueThe ceremonial approach to a shrine that became a catwalk for luxury architecture.
- Takeshita-dōriThree hundred and fifty metres of crêpes, outlandish clothes and the kawaii culture Tokyo exported to the world.
- Great torii and sake barrels of Meiji ShrineA gate of 1,500-year-old cypress and a wall of sake barrels facing another of Burgundy wine.
- Meiji Shrine (Meiji Jingū)A shrine to the emperor who modernised Japan, in a forest planted by hand to last a hundred years.
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Lunch
Try Edo-style sushi (Edomae) at Yoshino Sushi Honten. Nihonbashi 3-8-11, Chūō, Tokio
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Afternoon
Ginza
The district of the great department stores, named after the silver mint the shogunate set up here in the early 17th century. Stroll along Chūō-dōri, look at buildings such as Wako, and walk on towards Hama-rikyū, a quarter of an hour away.
DirectionsHama-rikyū Gardens
A former Tokugawa pleasure garden, with a seawater pond that rises and falls with the tide and a teahouse on the water, set against the skyscrapers of Shiodome. A boat to Asakusa leaves from its pier; check the timetable.
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Early evening
Kappa, a bodiless Buddha and hidden gods: Tokyo's legends
- Sensō-ji TempleTokyo's oldest temple worships an image that, according to tradition, came out of two fishermen's net, and that no one has ever seen.
- Sōgen-ji, the kappa templeThe grave of a merchant who, legend says, was helped by the river kappa to dig a canal.
- Kappabashi, the chefs' streetA golden kappa watches over the street where Japan buys its knives, its lanterns and its plastic food.
- The face of the Great Buddha of UenoAll that is left of a great bronze Buddha is its face: it lost its head in an earthquake and its body in a war.
- Kiyomizu Kannon-dōA miniature copy of a Kyoto temple, where mothers leave dolls and a pine tree forms a moon.
- Bentendō on Shinobazu PondA man-made island for the goddess of music and water, surrounded by memorials to knives and spectacles.
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Dinner
Try Tempura and tendon at Daikokuya Tempura. Asakusa 1-38-10, Taitō, Tokio
