Day 1The big postcard and dark Paris
In the morning, take the route "From the Eiffel Tower to Concorde along the Seine", which starts at the Trocadéro and crosses the Pont Alexandre III to Concorde. Have onion soup at Au Pied de Cochon, in Les Halles. The afternoon is free for two visits near Concorde. At dusk, head to Flamel's house to start the mystery route, which passes the Fontaine des Innocents and the Tour Saint-Jacques. Have snails for dinner on rue Montorgueil.
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Morning
From the Eiffel Tower to Concorde along the Seine
- Trocadéro and the Palais de ChaillotThe terrace with the most famous view of the Eiffel Tower is named after a battle fought in Cádiz, Spain.
- Eiffel TowerThe tower that was meant to last twenty years, and that the artists of Paris tried to stop.
- Pont de l'Alma: the Zouave and the FlameA stone soldier who measures the Seine's floods and a golden flame that became a spontaneous memorial.
- Pont Alexandre IIIA single steel arch, gold and nymphs to seal the alliance between the French Republic and the Tsar.
- Grand Palais and Petit PalaisTwin palaces built for the 1900 World's Fair, beneath one of the largest glass roofs in Europe.
- Place de la ConcordeThe square that honoured one king, guillotined another and ended up ruled by an Egyptian obelisk over three thousand years old.
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Lunch
Try French onion soup at Au Pied de Cochon. 6, rue Coquillière
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Afternoon
Arc de Triomphe
The monument Napoleon commissioned in 1806, now home to the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Climb to the terrace to see twelve avenues radiating out, then walk back down the Champs-Élysées to Concorde.
DirectionsMusée de l'Orangerie
A small museum at the edge of the Tuileries Garden, famous for Monet's Water Lilies, shown in two oval rooms designed for them. It's right next to Concorde; booking ahead is wise.
Directions -
Early evening
Alchemists, charnel houses and executioners: dark Paris
- House of Nicolas FlamelThe oldest dated house in Paris was built by a man legend turned into an immortal alchemist.
- Fountain of the InnocentsA Renaissance fountain in the middle of what was, for centuries, the largest cemetery in Paris.
- Saint-Jacques TowerThe lone tower of a vanished church, a starting point for pilgrims and the burial place of Nicolas Flamel.
- Hôtel de Ville square, the old Place de GrèveBeneath this festive square stood the scaffold of Paris for centuries.
- Notre-Dame: chimeras and the Devil's doorsStone monsters, ironwork credited to the Devil and a carving some saw as the key to alchemy.
- Rue Chanoinesse and the barber of the CitéThe canons' street keeps the memory of Héloïse and Abelard, and the most gruesome legend in Paris.
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Dinner
Try Burgundy snails at L'Escargot Montorgueil. 38, rue Montorgueil
