Day 1From Chiado to Belém
In the morning, “The best of Lisbon: from the Baixa to Chiado and back to the river”, with the Santa Justa Lift and A Brasileira. For lunch, take the train or tram to Belém and have a pastel de nata at Pastéis de Belém. The afternoon belongs to the Jerónimos and the tower by the Tagus. Head back to the centre for “Dark Lisbon: inquisitors, ravens and a curse”, from Rossio to Santa Engrácia. Finish with a bacalhau à Brás after a day of contrasts.
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Morning
The best of Lisbon: from the Baixa to Chiado and back to the river
- RossioLisbon's people's square since the Middle Ages, with wave-patterned paving that ended up travelling all the way to Rio de Janeiro.
- Santa Justa LiftA lacy iron tower that has carried Lisboetas from the Baixa up to Carmo since 1902, and which Eiffel did not design.
- Carmo Convent and Largo do CarmoA Gothic church left roofless by the earthquake, and a square where a dictatorship fell in 1974.
- Miradouro de São Pedro de AlcântaraA garden on two terraces with all of Lisbon spread out in front of you: the castle, the Baixa and the eastern hills.
- Chiado and A BrasileiraThe poets' quarter, where Fernando Pessoa still sits outside his café and where the word ‘bica’ was born.
- Rua Augusta ArchThe triumphal arch that crowns the Lisbon rebuilt after the earthquake and opens the city to the river.
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Lunch
Try Pastel de nata at Pastéis de Belém. Rua de Belém, 84-92
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Afternoon
Jerónimos Monastery
A masterpiece of Manueline architecture in Belém, with a two-storey cloister carved like lace and, in the church, the tombs of Vasco da Gama and Camões. Take tram 15 or the train from Cais do Sodré; booking ahead is wise.
DirectionsBelém Tower
A 16th-century defensive tower on the bank of the Tagus, a World Heritage Site together with the Jerónimos. It is a short riverside stroll from the monastery. If there's a queue, admiring it from outside is enough: the inner staircase is narrow.
Directions -
Early evening
Dark Lisbon: inquisitors, ravens and a curse
- Rossio and the Inquisition palaceWhere a theatre now stands, Portugal's most feared court sat for more than two centuries.
- Church of São DomingosA church with fire-cracked columns, where in 1506 the worst massacre in Lisbon's history began.
- Church of Saint AnthonyAccording to tradition, Lisbon's best-loved saint was born here: the one who finds lost things and arranges marriages.
- Lisbon Cathedral and the ravens of Saint VincentA boat, two ravens and a martyr's relics: the legend that became Lisbon's coat of arms.
- Church of Santa Engrácia (National Pantheon)The church that took 284 years to finish, and the curse of a condemned young man who, so the story goes, predicted it.
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Dinner
Try Bacalhau à Brás at Martinho da Arcada. Praça do Comércio, 3
