Day 1Fountains, Vatican and legends
In the morning, the route "From the Spanish Steps to St Peter's": Trevi, the Pantheon, Piazza Navona and Castel Sant'Angelo all the way to St Peter's Square. Have your carbonara along the way. With the afternoon free, go into the Vatican Museums, a short walk from the square, then cross the Tiber down to Trastevere. At dusk, a few minutes away, "Biting mouths and talking statues" awaits, from the Mouth of Truth to Campo de' Fiori, with cacio e pepe in Testaccio for dinner.
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Morning
From the Spanish Steps to St Peter's
- Piazza di Spagna and the Spanish StepsA staircase paid for by a French diplomat, in a square named after a Spanish embassy.
- The Trevi FountainA two-thousand-year-old aqueduct flows into the most famous water theatre in the world.
- The PantheonThe best-preserved Roman building in the world, with a dome that has been breaking records for nearly nineteen centuries.
- Piazza NavonaRome's great Baroque living room, with three fountains in a row on the track of a Roman stadium.
- Castel Sant'AngeloAn emperor's tomb turned into a fortress, a prison and a refuge for the popes.
- St Peter's SquareBernini's embrace in stone, an obelisk that never fell and a border you cross without a passport.
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Lunch
Try Spaghetti alla carbonara at Armando al Pantheon. Salita de' Crescenzi, 31
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Afternoon
Vatican Museums
More than five centuries of papal collections, with Raphael's Rooms and Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel as the finale. Book ahead and go in early in the afternoon; the exit brings you almost back to St Peter's.
DirectionsTrastevere
The neighbourhood across the Tiber, with cobbled lanes and ivy-covered façades. Step into Santa Maria in Trastevere for its golden mosaics, and wander without a map before crossing back to the centre.
Directions -
Early evening
Biting mouths and talking statues
- The Mouth of TruthA marble mask that, legend says, snaps shut on the hand of anyone who lies.
- Largo di Torre ArgentinaFour Republican temples, a colony of cats and, at the back, the spot where Julius Caesar was stabbed.
- The Minerva elephantBernini's elephant carries an obelisk on its back and, tradition says, points its rear at its critics.
- Piazza NavonaA fountain, a church and the most famous rivalry of the Baroque… which the dates prove false.
- The statue of PasquinoA battered torso that for centuries was the anonymous, and venomous, voice of the Roman people.
- Campo de' FioriA cheerful market around the statue of a philosopher who was burned alive in this very square.
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Dinner
Try Cacio e pepe at Felice a Testaccio. Via Mastro Giorgio, 29
