Day 1The castle and the quarter of legends
Start at Hradčany Square with "From Castle to River": St Vitus, Golden Lane and Malá Strana down to Charles Bridge. After a svíčková at lunch, give the afternoon to two easy walks on the left bank, the Lennon Wall with Kampa Island and Petřín. At dusk, cross the bridge and follow "Golems, Alchemists and a Hanging Arm", from the Old Jewish Cemetery to the Astronomical Clock. You'll have earned the goulash at dinner.
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Morning
From Castle to River: The Prague You Can't Miss
- Hradčany Square and the Castle GatesThe great forecourt of the Bohemian kings' castle, watched over by stone giants and guards in blue uniforms.
- St Vitus CathedralAlmost six centuries in the making: the cathedral where kings were crowned and the crown jewels are kept.
- Golden LaneDoll's-house cottages built into the castle wall, once home to guards, craftsmen, a fortune-teller and Franz Kafka.
- Malá Strana Square and St NicholasPrague's most spectacular Baroque church, where Mozart played and from whose belfry the secret police spied.
- Charles BridgeHalf a kilometre of Gothic stone, thirty Baroque saints and the finest view of the castle over the Vltava.
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Lunch
Try Svíčková na smetaně at U Pinkasů. Jungmannovo náměstí 15, Praga 1
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Afternoon
Lennon Wall and Kampa Island
A wall covered in graffiti and song lyrics since the 1980s, next to Kampa Island and the Čertovka stream. It's ten minutes from Malá Strana, and the best place to slow down after the castle.
DirectionsPetřín Hill
A hilltop park with a rose garden, orchards and a lookout tower from 1891 modelled on the Eiffel Tower. Take the funicular from Újezd or walk up; from the top you see all of Prague's rooftops and the castle.
Directions -
Early evening
Golems, Alchemists and a Hanging Arm
- Old Jewish CemeterySome twelve thousand gravestones crammed over layers of earth, and the tomb of the rabbi tradition credits with the Golem.
- Old-New SynagogueSeven centuries of prayer under one roof and, according to legend, a clay giant asleep in the attic.
- Basilica of St JamesA Baroque church where, beside the door, a mummified human arm has hung for centuries.
- Church of Our Lady before TýnTwo fairy-tale black spires, a chalice that vanished by night and the tomb of the astronomer whose death set tongues wagging for four centuries.
- Astronomical ClockMore than six hundred years of telling time, and a cruel legend about the clockmaker who was blinded.
- St John of Nepomuk on Charles BridgeThe oldest statue on the bridge, the saint thrown into the Vltava and a relief polished bright by countless hands.
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Dinner
Try Goulash with dumplings at U Fleků. Křemencova 11, Praga 1
