One day in PragueCastle, kings and legends
Start early at Hradčany Square with "From Castle to River": St Vitus, Golden Lane and the descent through Malá Strana to Charles Bridge, before the tour groups arrive. Have a svíčková for lunch by the river, then follow "Prague in Six Dates That Shook Europe", which begins at the Old Town Bridge Tower and passes the Clementinum and Old Town Square on its way to Wenceslas Square. As the light fades, "Golems, Alchemists and a Hanging Arm" takes you from the Old Jewish Cemetery to the Astronomical Clock. Finish with a proper goulash.
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Morning
From Castle to River: The Prague You Can't Miss
- Hradčany Square and the Castle GatesThe great forecourt of the Bohemian kings' castle, watched over by stone giants and guards in blue uniforms.
- St Vitus CathedralAlmost six centuries in the making: the cathedral where kings were crowned and the crown jewels are kept.
- Golden LaneDoll's-house cottages built into the castle wall, once home to guards, craftsmen, a fortune-teller and Franz Kafka.
- Malá Strana Square and St NicholasPrague's most spectacular Baroque church, where Mozart played and from whose belfry the secret police spied.
- Charles BridgeHalf a kilometre of Gothic stone, thirty Baroque saints and the finest view of the castle over the Vltava.
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Lunch
Try Svíčková na smetaně at U Pinkasů. Jungmannovo náměstí 15, Praga 1
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Afternoon
Prague in Six Dates That Shook Europe
- Old Town Bridge TowerThe Gothic gateway Charles IV raised as a triumphal arch, where the heads of executed rebels hung for ten years.
- The ClementinumThe Jesuits' fortress of learning, launchpad of Bohemia's re-Catholicisation, where the weather has been recorded since 1775.
- Old Town SquareThe stage where Prague has executed, celebrated and proclaimed for eight centuries; twenty-seven crosses in the ground remember it.
- Estates TheatreThe only surviving theatre where Mozart conducted the premiere of one of his operas: Don Giovanni, in 1787.
- Municipal House and Powder TowerA Gothic tower that once stored gunpowder and, next door, the Art Nouveau palace where Czechoslovak independence was proclaimed.
- Wenceslas SquareA former horse market that became the great stage of 20th-century Czech history, from 1918 to 1989.
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Early evening
Golems, Alchemists and a Hanging Arm
- Old Jewish CemeterySome twelve thousand gravestones crammed over layers of earth, and the tomb of the rabbi tradition credits with the Golem.
- Old-New SynagogueSeven centuries of prayer under one roof and, according to legend, a clay giant asleep in the attic.
- Basilica of St JamesA Baroque church where, beside the door, a mummified human arm has hung for centuries.
- Church of Our Lady before TýnTwo fairy-tale black spires, a chalice that vanished by night and the tomb of the astronomer whose death set tongues wagging for four centuries.
- Astronomical ClockMore than six hundred years of telling time, and a cruel legend about the clockmaker who was blinded.
- St John of Nepomuk on Charles BridgeThe oldest statue on the bridge, the saint thrown into the Vltava and a relief polished bright by countless hands.
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Dinner
Try Goulash with dumplings at U Fleků. Křemencova 11, Praga 1
