One day in TokyoFrom the sacred forest to the kappa
Start early with “From Hachikō to the sacred forest”: the Hachikō statue, Shibuya Crossing, Takeshita-dōri and the torii of Meiji Shrine, with the forest still quiet. Have Edo-style sushi at Yoshino Sushi, near Nihonbashi, which is exactly where the afternoon route, “From Edo to Tokyo”, begins: the red-brick station, Ōtemon Gate and the Imperial Palace. At dusk, in Asakusa, “Kappa, a bodiless Buddha and hidden gods” takes you from Sensō-ji to Kappabashi and Shinobazu Pond. Finish with tempura in Asakusa.
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Morning
From Hachikō to the sacred forest: Shibuya, Harajuku and Meiji Jingū
- Hachikō StatueAn Akita dog who waited for his owner for almost ten years and became the meeting point for the whole of Tokyo.
- Shibuya CrossingWhen every traffic light turns red for cars, a human tide crosses in all directions at once.
- Omotesandō AvenueThe ceremonial approach to a shrine that became a catwalk for luxury architecture.
- Takeshita-dōriThree hundred and fifty metres of crêpes, outlandish clothes and the kawaii culture Tokyo exported to the world.
- Great torii and sake barrels of Meiji ShrineA gate of 1,500-year-old cypress and a wall of sake barrels facing another of Burgundy wine.
- Meiji Shrine (Meiji Jingū)A shrine to the emperor who modernised Japan, in a forest planted by hand to last a hundred years.
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Lunch
Try Edo-style sushi (Edomae) at Yoshino Sushi Honten. Nihonbashi 3-8-11, Chūō, Tokio
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Afternoon
From Edo to Tokyo: bridges, castle walls and an emperor's capital
- Nihonbashi BridgeThe bridge where all of Japan's roads began, guarded by lions and by winged kirin.
- Tokyo Station (Marunouchi Building)A red-brick palace that survived the bombs, and in whose concourse a prime minister was assassinated.
- Ōtemon Gate of Edo CastleThe great gate through which the feudal lords entered to answer to the shogun.
- Statue of Kusunoki MasashigeA 14th-century samurai turned by Meiji Japan into the great symbol of loyalty to the emperor.
- Nijūbashi and the Imperial PalaceTokyo's most photographed bridge, which is not quite the one everyone thinks it is.
- Sakuradamon GateOne snowy morning in 1860, outside this gate, an assassination hastened the end of the shoguns.
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Early evening
Kappa, a bodiless Buddha and hidden gods: Tokyo's legends
- Sensō-ji TempleTokyo's oldest temple worships an image that, according to tradition, came out of two fishermen's net, and that no one has ever seen.
- Sōgen-ji, the kappa templeThe grave of a merchant who, legend says, was helped by the river kappa to dig a canal.
- Kappabashi, the chefs' streetA golden kappa watches over the street where Japan buys its knives, its lanterns and its plastic food.
- The face of the Great Buddha of UenoAll that is left of a great bronze Buddha is its face: it lost its head in an earthquake and its body in a war.
- Kiyomizu Kannon-dōA miniature copy of a Kyoto temple, where mothers leave dolls and a pine tree forms a moon.
- Bentendō on Shinobazu PondA man-made island for the goddess of music and water, surrounded by memorials to knives and spectacles.
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Dinner
Try Tempura and tendon at Daikokuya Tempura. Asakusa 1-38-10, Taitō, Tokio
